Nepal – Joel's World Travel Blog

I shall go to Korea.

March 8, 2013November 4, 2026 Joel

Or should I say, “I shall go to Korea if I can only get through China on the way!”

An eventful day, starting with another strike in Kathmandu that left the roads deserted of cars, but not people or rubble (placed there by protesters to hamper vehicular traffic). After our Air China flight finally took off, they announced in Mandarin that we were flying right past Mount Everest! Unfortunately, everyone on the right side of the plane got up and ran across the aisle to see it, which was a bit dicey. We were all disappointed because it stayed shrouded in clouds. Oh well. We continued on our way to Lhasa, Tibet.

As we started our descent into Lhasa, they warned us about turbulence. Then the pilot suddenly announced in Mandarin that it was too dangerous to land due to a blizzard, so they’d skip it and fly straight to Chengdu. Many of the passengers began cheering, and I thought it was someone’s birthday, but then they translated it into English. Skipping a layover sounds nice, but it meant we arrived two hours early, and I was left with seven hours to kill without being allowed to go anywhere. I’m not sure how many on the plane were disadvantaged by the decision, but they stayed quiet.

Flight from Kathmandu, Nepal to Chengdu, China

Map of the route “I shall go to Korea.”: 2,004,319 m, 2,289 m of climbing and 2,991 m of descent, elevation between 572 m and 3,240 m, time 03:15:34. It starts at 27.69818, 85.35777 and ends at 30.56683, 103.94920 (latitude, longitude).

Once I arrived in Chengdu, I had to face immigration without a Chinese visa. They were actually very nice, but they confiscated my passport and told me I wasn’t allowed to leave the airport terminal. At one point, 5 Chinese officials escorted me around. I get the impression they don’t deal with too many transient visitors. Chengdu airport is huge, with many empty, unused gates. Even so, they forced our plane to park way out on the tarmac, with 90% of the gates empty, and bused us in. I managed to squeeze some Yuan out of an ATM so I could get some dinner after finally finding out how much it was worth, so I knew not to overdraw or underdraw my account.

When they confiscated my passport, I immediately asked how I would get it back (as I had never been asked to surrender it before). An official assured me that when it came time to check in for my midnight flight, the passport would be waiting at the check-in desk for me to pick up, and the flight staff would know about the whole situation.

Normally, you can’t check in in person until about 3 hours before your flight, so I wasted many an hour shuffling around the huge, empty terminal as it closed more and more shops in the evening. So I finally got my chance to check in, and I got to the check-in counter. Of course, the staff knew absolutely nothing about it. They also couldn’t check me in without a valid passport, so I was completely stuck. As it turns out, my passport was not at the check-in counter, but sitting in an immigration office about 300 meters away – behind a security zone, which required a passport and a boarding pass to get through, and next to the emigration queue that also requires the same plus a valid visa from the Chinese government.

Nobody at the check-in counter knew what to do about this conundrum until I quietly mentioned that I actually had two passports (which I never disclosed to the Chinese officials, but then again, they never asked). This got everyone excited because it offered a partial solution: I could get my boarding pass, which let me get through security and closer to the immigration office.

In the end, an airline official escorted me through security straight to the immigration office that held my other passport. They were able to get the managing Chinese official to come out, and he very nicely went to great lengths to expedite my acceleration through the final emigration line – even going so far as to actually fill in immigration forms for me so I could legally leave the country I was denied access to visiting in the first place. Now my passport has a Chinese emigration stamp even though I was never technically in the country.

I don’t know if I was their first ever transient passenger, but they obviously need to grease the wheels on their processes… But maybe it’s just the Chinese way of conducting business. Other countries usually offer a last-minute escape route for transients only there to catch connecting flights, which you usually find just before you reach the immigration desks. This keeps you in the emigration holding zone and lets you circumvent the issue, although I have heard Canadians complain about having to go through U.S. customs when trying to simply go south of the USA.

Everyone was always very nice, polite, and respectful in this episode, as you always are when dealing with government officials, and nobody ever suggested or even implied that I had ever done anything wrong, but… what a circus!

Fortunately, I made it to Seoul as scheduled and navigated the extensive train and subway network with my luggage to find my hotel.

Flight from Chengdu, China to Seoul, South Korea

Map of the route “I shall go to Korea.”: 2,488,330 m, 2,266 m of climbing and 2,254 m of descent, elevation between 445 m and 2,426 m, time 03:30:01. It starts at 30.58538, 103.95466 and ends at 37.44687, 126.44552 (latitude, longitude).

Kathmandu, Nepal

Bookend Strikes

March 6, 2013November 4, 2026 Joel

Neoclassical Pavilion and Formal Landscaped Gardens at the Garden of Dreams (Kaiser Mahal), Kathmandu, Nepal

It’s my last day in Nepal, so I decided to explore a street I’ve driven down many times that has the old palace, now a museum. Unfortunately, the museum is closed, so I pony up my two bits to see the famous “Garden of Dreams” next door instead. It’s an odd intersection because a large compound across the street is protected by U.S. military officers, but it isn’t the embassy. Instead, I discover later, it’s an “American club” for diplomatic staff and expats – no tourists allowed. Sort of a country club with a baseball field, pool, etc. I remember seeing something similar in Colombo, but I’d never heard of it in Australia.

Lush Tropical Vegetation, Ornamental Trees and Formal Garden Pathways at the Garden of Dreams, Kathmandu, Nepal

Anyway, the Garden of Dreams was quite nice. It is an old garden that had fallen into disrepair prior to 2006, when it was fixed up and restored to its original splendour. It is located behind a big wall, protected from the noisy, dirty, busy street that runs between the old palace and the American club. There were a number of restaurants and cafes inside, so I decided to kick back with a cup of coffee to enjoy the surroundings a little longer. A little bit of paradise inside big, noisy, dirty Kathmandu.

Neoclassical Pavilion, Semicircular Amphitheatre and Ornamental Reflecting Pool at the Garden of Dreams (Kaiser Mahal), Kathmandu, Nepal

When I left the gardens, it suddenly struck me that there were no cars around and all the stores were still closed. Another strike? You bet! Another strike to bookend my Nepalese experience. One strike the day after I first arrived, and another strike the day before I left. There were police with machine guns on the street corners of Thamel, my neighbourhood, so I thought it best to retreat to my hotel room since everything was closed and the streets were looking a bit edgy.

White Calla Lilies (Zantedeschia aethiopica) in the Formal Gardens of the Garden of Dreams, Kathmandu, Nepal

Fortunately, by evening, I found quite a few stores open where I could buy some last-minute souvenirs. Nepal has been lots of fun, but it does have a lot of problems, and I am looking forward to moving on tomorrow!

Kathmandu, Nepal

The News from Nepal

March 5, 2013November 4, 2026 Joel

Today’s newspaper reported that Nepal ranks #8 on the misery index. That is, Nepal is considered the 8th most miserable place to live, just below Syria and Kosovo but above Namibia, Djibouti, Turkmenistan, Belarus, Burkina Faso, Liberia, and Zimbabwe. That must have something to do with persistent power outages, air pollution, noise pollution, crumbling infrastructure, and a lack of employment opportunities. Nepal plans to invest in a range of infrastructure improvements over the next ten years now that the political situation has begun to stabilise somewhat.

I hopped on a Yeti flight today (yes, they even have an airline named after the Abominable Snowman). It took me back to Kathmandu from Pokhara for the last few nights before I flew out. I was instructed to make sure I had a seat on the left side of the plane so I could admire all the Himalayan peaks as we made our 25-minute journey. I didn’t think it would make much difference with all the haze and smog that has accumulated since my hike, but we punched through most of the diffusion in our simple prop plane so I could see all the peaks along the way. And yes, they were pretty cool to watch as we flew past.

Yeti Flight from Pokhara to Kathmandu, Nepal

Map of the route “The News from Nepal”: 216,595 m, 772 m of climbing and 228 m of descent, elevation between 658 m and 1,321 m, time 00:49:20. It starts at 28.19883, 83.97833 and ends at 27.70224, 85.36009 (latitude, longitude).

Now back in Kathmandu, I ventured out for a haircut while the offering was cheap. Like many things around here (including taxis), there always seem to be strings attached to any quoted price. One bizarre custom among hair cutters in Nepal is that they also provide all kinds of massage services. This has put me off many times, but I did stumble across a place where two Westerners were already getting haircuts, so I thought I would get mine done. I tried to find out the price before we started, but all I got was “As you wish”. Finally, after I got him to mention 200 ringgit (just over $2), he started in and pulled out the exact same clippers I use to cut my own hair. After finishing with the cut, he started slipping in little additional services that were related, like shaving the back of my neck and behind my ears with a straight razor. Then he starts mumbling about putting ointment in my hair, and he starts his head massage. Then, before you know it, he tries to work his way down to a back massage, and I had to cut him off since the haircut was already finished. The whole thing was totally bizarre.

Nepal, Pokhara

The Mountain Museum

March 4, 2013November 4, 2026 Joel

On my last full day in Pokhara, thick haze returned and blocked most views of the Himalayas, so I decided to check out the International Mountain Museum. Getting there became the usual drama in places like this. All you want is a simple taxi ride to the museum, and everyone’s eyes light up like it’s a potential sales opportunity for a day-long chauffeur job. It makes you think twice before going anywhere that requires a cab!

None of the cab drivers around here wants to use their meters, so you need to negotiate a price before you get in. Then, on the way there, they try to entice you to see all the sights around town you haven’t been to yet. Then they insist on a round-trip fare and say they will wait for you while you see the museum. “Half hour?” they ask. “Um, actually, how about 2 hours. I like to take my time.” I read the museum was quite large. They look at you like you’re crazy, and I’m sure the financial appeal of the deal suddenly doesn’t sound so good. I send him off, telling him to come back in 2 hours and not wait so he has the opportunity to earn from others, but I’m not sure he ever left.

Anyway, the museum was quite interesting, and it took me a few hours to get through it. There was information on each of the world’s 20 highest peaks (even more interesting after hiking past some of them) and who first climbed them. There was information on all the local plants and animals of Nepal, as well as the Yeti(!) The museum also had gear donated that had been used to reach some of the summits. It was interesting to see how rudimentary some of it was by today’s standards. Most of the gear seemed to have been donated by Asian expeditions, not from the West. There were also displays on each of the native groups prominent in different regions of the country, like the Sherpas of the Everest area.

It seemed as though the 1950’s were the big years to conquer all the summits. One peak in Nepal has still never been successfully climbed, but the Nepalese government stopped allowing attempts in 1963. It’s called Machapuchare (also known as Fishtail Mountain, named for its twin peaks that look like a fishtail), with an elevation of 6,993 meters. It is very steep and difficult to ascend.

Sunrise illuminating the distinctive twin summit of Machapuchare (Fishtail Mountain, 6,993 m), viewed from Poon Hill (3,210 m), Gandaki Province, Nepal

One of the most interesting displays was of all the garbage they have cleaned up from Mount Everest. One climber who eventually made it to the top was so dismayed by all the things left by previous climbers that he organised a regular cleaning campaign to collect the waste and fly it out. Among the debris were pieces of broken ladders (used to get across crevices in the ice), big piles of cooking stove gas canisters (some flattened by ice pressure over time), old ripped-up tent fragments, and big piles of oxygen tanks – some dating back to the 1960s.

Nepal

Classy Customs and Other Cultural Observations

March 3, 2013November 4, 2026 Joel

The Nepalese have a custom they use when they hand you money, food, or menus. They extend the item with their right hand while showing respect with their left by touching their right elbow. It’s actually quite classy, I think.

Otherwise, I always find it interesting when political borders don’t really match the cultural borders in most countries. There always seem to be transitions taking place from region to region. Nepal is predominantly Hindu, but the majority of people living in the mountains are Buddhist – which is closest to Tibet/China. Some of the traditional Nepalese music you hear sounds either very Chinese or very Indian to me. Many of the TV shows you see look like Indian shows. Every time I attributed a cultural element I encountered to another country, my trekking guide quickly corrected me and said it was Nepalese. The traditional dress worn by both women and men here also looks similar to what people wear in other mountain regions northwest of Nepal.

Nepal, Pokhara

Pokhara MTB

March 3, 2013November 4, 2026 Joel

With just a few days left in Pokhara, I’ve taken a day to rest and recover from endless Annapurna stair climbs and descents, and I’ve lined up some mountain biking in the nearby hills this morning. As with all my other pursuits here, I’ve found a personal guide to show me around. Or at least I did initially. An Australian guy from Victoria came and joined us at the last minute. It certainly seems a bit slow here this time of year, but that is good for me. Nepal seemed pretty busy with Chinese tourists when I first arrived, but that was because of the Chinese New Year holiday period in China, which is over now.

Hazy view of Phewa Lake from one of the peaks of our mountain biking journey with Pokhara and the Himalayan Mountains in the background

Hills? More like mountains! The mountain bike circuit, which was supposed to be their least hilly option, kicked off with a 500-meter climb up to the top of a ridge overlooking the city of Pokhara and its neighbouring lake. Too bad the place has become so hazy again – the views would have been quite spectacular otherwise. From the top, it ran along a gentle, roller-coaster, ridge-hugging track for a while before a quick descent to a huge plateau of rice paddies next to the lake. From there, the ride was fairly flat all the way back into town. About 700 meters of climbing in all and 30 km in length. Our guide offered to take us up another mountain on the other side of the lake, but we both politely declined.

Pokhara Mountain Biking Circuit

Map of the route “Pokhara MTB”: 27,838 m, 744 m of climbing and 750 m of descent, elevation between 807 m and 1,320 m, time 03:01:27. It is a loop that starts and ends at 28.21401, 83.95783 (latitude, longitude).

I don’t know why, but every time I’ve rented a bike overseas, the seat post has kept sliding down until the bike became too hard to pedal, and I had to stop and raise it again. This has happened to me in Fiji, Egypt, and now Nepal. Otherwise, it was a much nicer bike than I have been able to rent in the past.

The bike tour operator was actually a front for a local mountain bike club. Good mountain bikes are prohibitively expensive for many Nepalese, so the club ran tours for tourists and charged fees high enough to buy good bikes for club members, who would ride them the rest of the time.

Annapurna, Nepal

Annapurna Trek Day 5: The Finish Line

March 1, 2013November 3, 2026 Joel

Snow-covered peaks and dramatic glacial slopes of the Annapurna massif, viewed along the trekking route between Jhinu Danda and Birethanti, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal

The final day of my Annapurna Trek was pretty straightforward. Up early for breakfast, down another steep staircase to the river to cross a bridge, back up the other side, rinse, and repeat.

Traditional Nepalese hillside village surrounded by extensive terraced agricultural fields, illuminated by afternoon sunlight along the trekking route between Jhinu Danda and Birethanti, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal

Steep stone steps descending through lush Himalayan forest towards a turquoise mountain river, along the trekking route between Jhinu Danda and Birethanti, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal

Traditional wooden footbridge spanning a fast-flowing turquoise mountain stream, surrounded by large river boulders, along the trekking route between Jhinu Danda and Birethanti, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal

Mountain trekking trail winding through lush subtropical forest on the steep Himalayan hillsides between Jhinu Danda and Birethanti, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal

Local pedestrian crossing a narrow suspension footbridge over a fast-flowing, boulder-strewn mountain river, along the trekking route between Jhinu Danda and Birethanti, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal

Eventually our track widened to a roadway where a half dozen 4wd vehicles hung around waiting for tired hikers to ferry out. We passed them and continued as the road gradually became one long decline back along the river to where we started 5 days ago.

Day 5 Hike of the Annapurna Circuit

Map of the route “Annapurna Trek Day 5: The Finish Line”: 20,178 m, 428 m of climbing and 1,028 m of descent, elevation between 1,105 m and 1,707 m, time 05:50:35. It starts at 28.41023, 83.82436 and ends at 28.30957, 83.77464 (latitude, longitude).

Overall, quite a spectacular hike. It was also very interesting to pass through all the villages and see how many Nepalese earn their keep.

Two Nepalese women in colourful traditional clothing sorting and drying freshly harvested ginger outside a village house, along the trekking route between Jhinu Danda and Birethanti, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal

Local Nepalese woman wearing colourful traditional clothing and carrying a large bundle along a steep stone trekking path while talking on mobile phone between Jhinu Danda and Birethanti, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal

Local Nepalese craftsman weaving a traditional bamboo mat by hand in a stone-paved village courtyard, along the trekking route between Jhinu Danda and Birethanti, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal

Local Nepalese porter carrying a heavily laden traditional wicker basket (doko), supported by a forehead strap (namlo), along a steep, rocky mountain trail between Jhinu Danda and Birethanti, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal

Mountain stream cascading through a densely forested valley in the Himalayan foothills, along the trekking route between Jhinu Danda and Birethanti, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal

One bit of irony: passing through countless villages that rely on spring water to drink and mules for deliveries, they always had power 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Here in Pokhara, I’ve been back now for six hours and still have no power. It seems to be off more than it’s on. How do the villages get power?

Small hydroelectric power station, possibly a micro-hydropower installation, with a steeply descending penstock on a forested hillside between Jhinu Danda and Birethanti, Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal

They generate their own electricity through micro-hydroelectric generators that use channelled water from nearby streams. We passed quite a few of them. Each required substantial work to set up and could power only about 40 homes, but they’re lucky to have power when they need it.

Now back in Pokhara, in my choice room with spectacular views, my legs are very sore and sick of stairs! I do have a bathtub which I should put to use.

Early morning view across Pokhara, Nepal, showing colourful residential buildings, lush green gardens and surrounding forested hills, with the snow-capped Annapurna Himalaya visible in the distance

Full 5 Day Ghorepani & Poon Hill Annapurna Circuit Hike

Map of the route “Annapurna Trek Day 5: The Finish Line”: 88,324 m, 3,931 m of climbing and 3,881 m of descent, elevation between 1,026 m and 3,102 m, time 99:20:13. It starts at 28.29621, 83.76791 and ends at 28.30957, 83.77464 (latitude, longitude).

Source Map

Annapurna, Nepal

Annapurna Trek Day 4: And more stairs!

March 1, 2013November 3, 2026 Joel

Early morning at a mountain guesthouse in Chuile, Annapurna region, Nepal, with a grazing horse and free-ranging chickens in the courtyard overlooking the forested Himalayan foothills

After a long recuperation, sleep in a below-average guest house… Well, it was okay except for all the guest signs and rules, including “do not put packs on beds.” Which begs the question: If their beds can’t handle my pack, how will they handle me? It was in a nice spot overlooking a big river valley and received some nice warm morning light. Hardly any other trekkers, save an Israeli couple. I asked for cornbread with my breakfast and got a huge fried pastry, like a papadon, made with corn and sprinkled with sugar, which was quite nice.

Local villagers enjoying the early morning panoramic views of the Himalayan foothills from a guesthouse in Chuile, Annapurna region, Nepal

Local Nepalese family outside a traditional mountain guesthouse along the trekking route between Chuile and Jhinu Danda, Annapurna region, Nepal

From about 2/3 up the mountain, our trek led us straight down many switchbacks and stairs to a suspension bridge over a river, then back up the other side. Eventually we reached a stretch wiped out by a monsoon landslide four years ago, and we had to take a huge detour way up to a higher altitude than where we started.

Rocky mountain stream flowing through a steep, forested valley along the trekking route between Chuile and Jhinu Danda, Annapurna region, Nepal

Narrow suspension bridge decorated with colourful Buddhist prayer flags over a steep, rocky gorge along the trail between Chuile and Jhinu Danda, Annapurna region, Nepal

Trekkers crossing a narrow suspension bridge decorated with colourful Buddhist prayer flags over a steep, rocky gorge along the trail between Chuile and Jhinu Danda, Annapurna region, Nepal

Along the way, we saw terraced farming plots of wheat and other crops, including some marijuana. It was amazing to think these people spent their days working their way up and down these huge mountainsides. We occasionally came across couriers with massive packs of fragile cargo on their backs, like eggs or bottled drinks, that couldn’t be trusted on a mule’s back.

Traditional hillside village surrounded by terraced agricultural fields, overlooking a steep forested valley along the trekking route between Chuile and Jhinu Danda, Annapurna region, Nepal

Cabbages (Brassica oleracea var. capitata) intersperced with majiuana plants growing in a small vegetable garden along the trekking route between Chuile and Jhinu Danda, Annapurna region, Nepal

Nepalese porter carrying a large stack of chicken eggs up steep stone steps along the trekking route between Chuile and Jhinu Danda, Annapurna region, Nepal.

Several massive landslides in the area claimed many lives. One in particular left a huge rock, about the size of a four-story office building, lying halfway down the hill. There were many memorials next to the track for those villagers who died in the landslides.

Ginormous boulder deposited by a rockslide in a steep mountain ravine along the trekking route between Chuile and Jhinu Danda, Annapurna region, Nepal

Day 4 Hike of the Annapurna Circuit

Map of the route “Annapurna Trek Day 4: And more stairs!”: 11,342 m, 452 m of climbing and 953 m of descent, elevation between 1,808 m and 2,301 m, time 03:55:22. It starts at 28.40462, 83.77573 and ends at 28.40998, 83.82424 (latitude, longitude).

Fallen red rhododendron blossoms scattered among dry leaves on the forest floor along the trekking route between Chuile and Jhinu Danda, Annapurna region, Nepal

Trekker walking along a forested mountain trail with the distinctive snow-covered summit of Machhapuchhre (Fishtail Mountain, 6,993 m) rising in the distance, between Chuile and Jhinu Danda, Annapurna region, Nepal

Young domestic yak-like bovine trail obstacle resting on a mountain trekking trail between Chuile and Jhinu Danda, Annapurna region, Nepal

Colourful domestic rooster (Gallus gallus domesticus) standing on a stone-paved courtyard in a mountain village along the trekking route between Chuile and Jhinu Danda, Annapurna region, Nepal

We arrived at another wonderful guesthouse around noon with amazing views of snowy peaks and deep river valleys. Plus, my room had an attached bathroom, a big bed, and private mountaintop views. Probably the nicest guesthouse yet. And it was just a 20-minute walk from some wonderful hot spring pools. It’s about 1800m above sea level.

Hot Springs Hike

Map of the route “Annapurna Trek Day 4: And more stairs!”: 874 m, 1 m of climbing and 162 m of descent, elevation between 1,641 m and 1,794 m, time 00:19:20. It starts at 28.40998, 83.82462 and ends at 28.41552, 83.82925 (latitude, longitude).

My legs have become very stiff and sore, and my feet have finally bubbled up a few blisters from all the steep stair climbing and descents, and the hot springs sounded like just the ticket to treatment. Unfortunately, they were straight down another long set of never-ending stairs to river level. We spent about an hour soaking, and my legs felt much better in the end. The pools were man-made along a beautiful, ice-cold snowmelt river. During the summer monsoon season, the flooded-out river destroys the baths, so they rebuild them every spring and collect a small entrance fee to finance the annual construction.

Trekkers relaxing in a natural hot spring pool at Jhinu Danda, Annapurna region, Nepal, surrounded by large boulders and lush mountain vegetation

The climb back up seemed a lot easier. Back at the guesthouse, the manager is a good friend of my guide from ten years ago, so they enjoy each other’s company. The manager is also one of the better cooks I’ve met on this trek, so I’m quite happy.

Fast-flowing waters of the Modi Khola River cascading over large boulders through a narrow, forested gorge near the Jhinu Danda Hot Springs, Annapurna region, Nepal

Tomorrow we finish our trek by following the beautiful, crystal-clear snowmelt river back to where we started, hopefully with minimal hills. I haven’t heard a car horn in 4 days, and I’m savouring the tranquillity before we get back to Pokhara and its traffic.

Annapurna, Nepal

Annapurna Trek Day 3: Today’s word is Treacherous

February 28, 2013October 31, 2026 Joel

Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m), the world's seventh-highest mountain, illuminated by moonlight before sunrise, viewed from Poon Hill, Gandaki Province, Nepal — Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m), the world’s seventh-highest mountain, illuminated by moonlight before sunrise, viewed from Poon Hill, Gandaki Province, Nepal

My day started at 5 AM, or earlier, because I didn’t sleep well. Altitude? Waiting for my alarm to ring? Probably a combination of both. We started at 5 AM so we could reach Poon Hill before sunrise and see the spectacle of morning light on the Himalayas.

Pre-dawn Himalayan mountain silhouettes beneath a colourful sunrise sky, viewed from Poon Hill (3,210 m), Gandaki Province, Nepal

Sunrise over the Annapurna Himalayas from Poon Hill (3,210 m), Gandaki Province, Nepal — featuring Annapurna I (8,091 m, world's 10th highest), Annapurna South (7,219 m) and Machapuchare (6,993 m), with Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m) in the distance

Annapurna South (7,219 m), illuminated by the first light of dawn, viewed from Poon Hill (3,210 m), Gandaki Province, Nepal

Of course, everyone does this, so scores of trekkers were aiming for the same peak in ice-cold darkness. It snowed up here a week ago, maybe about a foot. The trails along the ridge overlooking the Annapurna Range were now sheets of ice from hikers and some daytime melting. Getting up Poon Hill was steep and slippery, but after sunrise we had to descend for breakfast and bags so we could continue along the circuit toward Annapurna Base Camp.

Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m), the world's seventh-highest mountain, towering above the Himalayan foothills, with colourful Buddhist prayer flags in the foreground, viewed from Poon Hill (3,210 m), Gandaki Province, Nepal — Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m), the world’s seventh-highest mountain, towering above the Himalayan foothills, with colourful Buddhist prayer flags in the foreground, viewed from Poon Hill (3,210 m), Gandaki Province, Nepal

First light of sunrise illuminating Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m), the world's seventh-highest mountain, and the surrounding Dhaulagiri Himal, viewed from snow-covered Poon Hill (3,210 m), Gandaki Province, Nepal — First light of sunrise illuminating Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m), the world’s seventh-highest mountain, and the surrounding Dhaulagiri Himal, viewed from snow-covered Poon Hill (3,210 m), Gandaki Province, Nepal

For a while, I thought hiking in the snow was challenging and fun, but after about 5 slips and falls, and a gashed open hand from a sharp rock as I tried to brace myself, I just wanted to get back below snow level. It was an extremely treacherous section that everyone was really struggling with. At one point, my guide took off his shoes and socks and put them back on, socks over shoes. It worked! He didn’t slip for most of the rest of the descent.

Panoramic view of Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m), the world's seventh-highest mountain, on the left, and Machapuchare (Fishtail Mountain, 6,993 m) on the right, above the snow-covered trekking trail between Poon Hill and Banthanti, Annapurna region, Gandaki Province, Nepal — Panoramic view of Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m), the world’s seventh-highest mountain, on the left, and Machapuchare (Fishtail Mountain, 6,993 m) on the right, above the snow-covered trekking trail between Poon Hill and Banthanti, Annapurna region, Gandaki Province, Nepal

Snow-covered forest trail winding through tall Himalayan trees on the trek from Poon Hill towards Banthanti, Annapurna region, Gandaki Province, Nepal

Trekkers resting at Green Shankar Lodge and Restaurant, a mountain teahouse surrounded by flowering rhododendrons, with snow-covered Himalayan peaks in the background, along the trekking route from Poon Hill towards Banthanti, Annapurna region, Gandaki Province, Nepal

I would say today was my hardest day so far, with three steep ascents and the ice and snow. Most of the trail ran through forest, with views of snow-capped peaks between the branches. Huge forests of rhododendron trees will probably burst into bloom here in two weeks. Some trees are open, and many others have red buds starting to open. On our hike today, we also saw wild orchids, wild monkeys, and a deer (evidently rare; my guide had never seen one while trekking before).

Brilliant pink Himalayan rhododendrons (Rhododendron arboreum) flowering against the snow-covered peaks of the Annapurna Himalayas, along the trekking trail from Poon Hill towards Banthanti, Gandaki Province, Nepal

Himalayan grey langur (Semnopithecus schistaceus) perched in a moss-covered rhododendron tree along the trekking trail from Poon Hill towards Chuile, Annapurna Conservation Area, Gandaki Province, Nepal

Day 3 Hike of the Annapurna Circuit

Map of the route “Annapurna Trek Day 3: Today’s word is Treacherous”: 23,360 m, 980 m of climbing and 1,461 m of descent, elevation between 2,290 m and 3,102 m, time 09:53:03. It starts at 28.40319, 83.69986 and ends at 28.40453, 83.77869 (latitude, longitude).

Colourful Buddhist prayer flags fluttering beneath the towering snow-covered summit of Annapurna South (7,219 m), viewed along the trekking trail from Ghorepani towards Chuile, Annapurna Conservation Area, Gandaki Province, Nepal

At one point, while struggling up a steep hill, I told my guide I would never have survived the Everest Base Camp hike. Today, we reached a peak altitude of 3101m (a bit over 10,000 feet), and I found it very hard to climb. The Everest Base Camp reaches an altitude of 5500m (18,000 feet). He said I wouldn’t have had any problem with the Everest Base Camp hike because it takes longer and has a much more gradual ascent, which lets you acclimatise much better. You are supposed to climb only 300 meters a day at higher altitudes, but because the Annapurna Circuit is so hilly, they have no choice unless hikers really only want to hike 2 hours a day.

Sunlit veranda of a Himalayan trekking guesthouse near Chuile, with colourful potted plants, laundry drying in the mountain sunshine and spectacular views of the snow-covered Annapurna Himalayas, Annapurna Conservation Area, Gandaki Province, Nepal

By evening, only one couple from Israel showed up at the guesthouse (at about 2500m), also extremely fatigued from the day’s hike. We were also inundated with donkeys home from a tough day on the trails, ecstatic to have some time off. I’ve never seen mules roll around in the grass and run and play before.

Pack mules carrying supplies in red panniers, accompanied by their handler, along a steep, rocky mountain trail between Ghorepani and Chuile, Annapurna Conservation Area, Gandaki Province, Nepal

A brown Himalayan pack pony standing outside Mountain Discovery Lodge and Restaurant in Chhuille (Chuile), Annapurna Conservation Area, Gandaki Province, Nepal

Late afternoon sunlight streaming through the windows of a traditional Himalayan trekking guesthouse near Chuile, with panoramic views of the Annapurna mountains and surrounding valleys, Annapurna Conservation Area, Gandaki Province, Nepal

Late-afternoon sunlight illuminating a traditional Himalayan trekking guesthouse near Chuile, with a woman walking across the grassy courtyard, Annapurna Conservation Area, Gandaki Province, Nepal

Now halfway back down the mountain, tomorrow is supposed to be a short hiking day with a hot springs visit in the afternoon. Looking forward to that!

Traditional terraced farmland and scattered mountain villages on the steep Himalayan hillsides between Ghorepani and Chuile, Annapurna Conservation Area, Gandaki Province, Nepal

Annapurna, Nepal

Annapurna Trek Day 2: Stairs, Stairs, Stairs

February 27, 2013October 28, 2026 Joel

Terraced Rice Fields and Traditional Farming Village, Annapurna Region, Nepal

Started off bright and early before the other lodgers to tackle about a 3000+ stair climb and the hardest day of my 5 day trek. Or so I was told. One of the New Zealanders who I met this morning at breakfast said later in the day that it was the hardest hike he’s done in Nepal yet, and he’s been here hiking for quite a while now – so I guess it was! There was a lot of climbing, but I really didn’t think it was too hard – but it certainly helps to have someone carrying your pack for most of the way.

Hidden Waterfall and Turquoise Mountain Pool in the Annapurna Region, Nepal

Suspension Footbridge Decorated with Buddhist Prayer Flags, Annapurna Region, Nepal

Pack Mules Transporting Supplies Along a Rugged Himalayan Trail, Annapurna Trek, Nepal

Hiker Crossing a Wooden Footbridge over a Mountain Stream, Annapurna Region, Nepal

My guide’s name is Deepak, and he’s 21 years younger than me, so I don’t fret too much when I run out of breath, and he’s still quietly breathing through his nose. He was born and raised in a small village just like the ones we’ve been walking through, so he can explain what life is like for the locals from personal experience. He’s also a registered guide with the Nepalese government and completed 45 days of training in culture, history, flora, fauna, anthropology, first aid, and more.

Village Life in Winter – Locals Walking Along Snow-Covered Stone Steps, Annapurna Trek, Nepal

Woman Enjoying a Hot Drink Outside a Mountain Lodge, Ghorepani, Annapurna Region, Nepal

Traditional Rural Life – Villager Sorting and Preparing Plant Stalks Along the Annapurna Trek, Nepal

Himalayan Rhododendrons in Bloom with Annapurna Mountain Peaks in the Background, Nepal

Nepalese Children Playing Outside Their Home, Annapurna Region, Nepal

Nepalese Woman Carrying a Large Cooking Pot Through Snow-Covered Ghorepani, Annapurna Region, Nepal

Everyday Life in the Himalayas – Local Woman Walking Along a Traditional Stone-Paved Trail, Nepal

Day 2 Hike of the Annapurna Circuit

Map of the route “Annapurna Trek Day 2: Stairs, Stairs, Stairs”: 20,533 m, 1,401 m of climbing and 139 m of descent, elevation between 1,498 m and 2,767 m, time 06:55:53. It starts at 28.35148, 83.74261 and ends at 28.40327, 83.69999 (latitude, longitude).

Machhapuchhre (Fishtail Mountain, 6,993 m) Bathed in Late-Afternoon Sunlight, Annapurna Region, Nepal

It’s been an amazing hike so far, getting more and more Spectacular the higher you climb. And colder and colder. We ended the day’s 20km hike at a ridge (at 2760m), staring straight at the world’s 7th and 10th tallest mountains. Snow from last week covered the area around our guesthouse, and it was 10C in my room, but I had a wonderful private bathroom with a great hot shower, and I brought plenty of warm gear to put on.

Room with a View – Snow-Capped Annapurna Himalayas as seen from my Guesthouse Room in Ghorepani, Annapurna Region, Nepal

By evening, the guesthouse had a warm, cozy ski-lodge atmosphere when they lit a big fire in the dining room and served me hot vegetable curry over rice, masala tea, and hot apple crumble with custard for dessert.