Ayuthaya Province, Thailand

Befriending Buddhist

Buddhist Monk, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Buddhist Monk, Ayutthaya, Thailand

I was up early in the morning touring the ruins of Ayutthaya when I spotted a young Buddhist boy with a shaved head and a bright orange robe wandering the grounds. I tried to sneak a few photographs of him, but when he noticed me, he ran up to me with a big smile on his face. He asked whether he could practice his English on me. His English actually seemed pretty good, but I sat down with him to help him work out a few kinks in his communication skills. He had an English-Thai translation book handy.

Buddhist Monk, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Buddhist Monk, Ayutthaya, Thailand

I was quite surprised to learn that he was only seven years old (or possibly he mixed the number up with eleven). He had been a Buddhist for three years and was about to embark on a trip to Germany to study at an English-language monastery for five years—all by himself (without family)! He was actually on his way to Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia) to meet his girlfriend before flying off to Europe. She was also 7. He showed me a picture of her. She was Chinese and met him on a family vacation to his hometown in Thailand. He had written her a love letter and asked me to proofread it for him. I think he wanted help with pronouncing it because he had only known how to look up the written translation in his books.

Buddhist Monk, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Buddhist Monk, Ayutthaya, Thailand

He seemed quite keen on women for his age, asking me what I thought of Thai women and expressing a preference for lighter-skinned Chinese women. I asked him whether he liked German women (seeing as he was headed in that direction anyway) and he told me they were “too long”.

Buddha Head in Sacred Bodhi Tree, Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Buddha Head in Sacred Bodhi Tree, Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand

Talking with him confirmed what I had heard last year when I was here: that many Buddhist monks are practising only as a form of social support. In his case, he seemed to be practising to get support and a free education. He even told me he was planning to quit when he turned 19 (after high school). Buddhism seems to serve as the social safety net in these parts.

Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand

I spent a few hours talking with him. I felt kind of cool walking around with this guy most Thais seemed to have such high reverence for, bowing before him and expressing their personal thoughts to him in Thai. At one point, I think a security guard took advantage of him by telling him he wasn’t getting a lunch break and needed food. The 7-year-old monk promptly forked over all the food he had in his satchel. I felt kind of bad for him and took him out to lunch afterwards, even though he had already shown me his ATM card. Minutes later, a partially blind Thai woman would kneel before him, asking for a blessing or prayer. In exchange, she left him a Coke. He seemed kind of embarrassed about it in front of me, but I found it interesting to see how the exchange of food would probably work out between him and others in the end, after all.

Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand

Needless to say, he was very mature for his age. I couldn’t believe it when he told me he was only seven. I think he was lonely travelling on his own and thought we were going to spend the whole day together, but I had to shake him loose after lunch. Interesting experience, anyway…

Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayuthaya Province, Bangkok, Thailand

Clash of Classes

Back street commuters in Bangkok, Thailand
Back street commuters in Bangkok, Thailand

I had quite the clash of classes between yesterday and today. After spending a long day pounding the hot pavement of Bangkok, I decided to treat myself to that King Kong movie I had noted on my previous visit.

Before I go any further, let me just say Kong is King. ‘Nuff said.

Anyway, I bought that deluxe “Gold Pass” ticket I mentioned earlier. For about the price of a regular movie ticket in Australia, I got to sit in a special theatre full of huge reclining sofa chairs. No need to exert any energy to recline them; mind you, these babies had electronic push-button controls to get them into whatever exact contortions you desired. Each seat came with its own pillow and blanket set, so you could snuggle up extra-comfy in that chilly, air-conditioned darkness. Next to your seat was a personal hardwood table for holding your popcorn, snacks, Coke, or bar drink. There were waiters prowling the theatre to attend to your every need.

Before the film started, we were entitled to hang out in this luxurious lounge with a free open bar and snacks. The movie had Thai subtitles, and there was that glitzy tribute to the King of Siam before the show started (for which everyone was expected to stand). It seemed that the audience was predominantly made up of Western tourists. I couldn’t help but think it was all a bit frivolous, really.

Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Mother and child praying at the Buddha head in the sacred Bodhi Tree, Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Mother and child praying at the Buddha head in the sacred Bodhi Tree, Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand

And then came today, when I rose early and made a mad dash for the Bangkok train station so I could get out to the “must-see” historic Wat (Buddhist temple) filled Ayutthaya Historical Park for a three-day stay in a finely restored teak guesthouse overlooking a peaceful frog-filled lily-pad-laden pond.

Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand

The only seats available on this 1.5-hour train trip were third class. This meant hard bench-type seating with no air conditioning or ventilation other than through open windows. The view wasn’t bad (seeing as you had nothing between you and outside to look through), but you just had to be careful not to stick your arm out there. Occasionally a beam or bridge girder would fly past without any warning.

Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand

Even though I had a reserved seat, it seemed at least half the people on the train were forced to stand for their entire journey. Most of the passengers were Thais, but there were quite a few Western backpackers as well. My guess is they filled up the seats and just continued selling standing-room-only tickets. Fortunately, the trip was an early one and not too hot. I hate to think what a later afternoon train ride must have been like.

Buddha Head in Sacred Bodhi Tree, Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Buddha Head in Sacred Bodhi Tree, Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand

It seems much hotter here in Ayutthaya than it was in Bangkok. It must be due to the lack of smog in Bangkok, which filters out the sun’s rays. I only managed a short hike around some of the ruins today before I was forced to retreat to my guesthouse, sweating profusely. There isn’t any air-conditioning in my room, but the house was designed to be cool, with high walls that don’t quite reach the ceiling, polished hardwood floors raised above ground on stilts, and big, breezy windows — all with air circulation in mind. I do have a ceiling fan as well. I plan to get up early tomorrow (before it gets too hot) so I can take a cycle ride around town and visit more ruins.

Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand

I plan to stay here for three nights before moving on to one of the world’s allegedly best national parks. It’s chock full of wildlife, including elephants and tigers! The guesthouse I’m aiming for sounds like it has some interesting tours (including nocturnal ones).

Elephant Refuge near Ayutthaya, Thailand
Elephant Refuge near Ayutthaya, Thailand