February 2013 – Joel's World Travel Blog

Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m), the world's seventh-highest mountain, illuminated by moonlight before sunrise, viewed from Poon Hill, Gandaki Province, Nepal — Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m), the world’s seventh-highest mountain, illuminated by moonlight before sunrise, viewed from Poon Hill, Gandaki Province, Nepal

My day started at 5 AM, or earlier, because I didn’t sleep well. Altitude? Waiting for my alarm to ring? Probably a combination of both. We started at 5 AM so we could reach Poon Hill before sunrise and see the spectacle of morning light on the Himalayas.

Pre-dawn Himalayan mountain silhouettes beneath a colourful sunrise sky, viewed from Poon Hill (3,210 m), Gandaki Province, Nepal

Sunrise over the Annapurna Himalayas from Poon Hill (3,210 m), Gandaki Province, Nepal — featuring Annapurna I (8,091 m, world's 10th highest), Annapurna South (7,219 m) and Machapuchare (6,993 m), with Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m) in the distance

Annapurna South (7,219 m), illuminated by the first light of dawn, viewed from Poon Hill (3,210 m), Gandaki Province, Nepal

Of course, everyone does this, so scores of trekkers were aiming for the same peak in ice-cold darkness. It snowed up here a week ago, maybe about a foot. The trails along the ridge overlooking the Annapurna Range were now sheets of ice from hikers and some daytime melting. Getting up Poon Hill was steep and slippery, but after sunrise we had to descend for breakfast and bags so we could continue along the circuit toward Annapurna Base Camp.

Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m), the world's seventh-highest mountain, towering above the Himalayan foothills, with colourful Buddhist prayer flags in the foreground, viewed from Poon Hill (3,210 m), Gandaki Province, Nepal — Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m), the world’s seventh-highest mountain, towering above the Himalayan foothills, with colourful Buddhist prayer flags in the foreground, viewed from Poon Hill (3,210 m), Gandaki Province, Nepal

First light of sunrise illuminating Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m), the world's seventh-highest mountain, and the surrounding Dhaulagiri Himal, viewed from snow-covered Poon Hill (3,210 m), Gandaki Province, Nepal — First light of sunrise illuminating Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m), the world’s seventh-highest mountain, and the surrounding Dhaulagiri Himal, viewed from snow-covered Poon Hill (3,210 m), Gandaki Province, Nepal

Sunrise illuminating the distinctive twin summit of Machapuchare (Fishtail Mountain, 6,993 m), viewed from Poon Hill (3,210 m), Gandaki Province, Nepal

For a while, I thought hiking in the snow was challenging and fun, but after about 5 slips and falls, and a gashed open hand from a sharp rock as I tried to brace myself, I just wanted to get back below snow level. It was an extremely treacherous section that everyone was really struggling with. At one point, my guide took off his shoes and socks and put them back on, socks over shoes. It worked! He didn’t slip for most of the rest of the descent.

Panoramic view of Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m), the world's seventh-highest mountain, on the left, and Machapuchare (Fishtail Mountain, 6,993 m) on the right, above the snow-covered trekking trail between Poon Hill and Banthanti, Annapurna region, Gandaki Province, Nepal — Panoramic view of Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m), the world’s seventh-highest mountain, on the left, and Machapuchare (Fishtail Mountain, 6,993 m) on the right, above the snow-covered trekking trail between Poon Hill and Banthanti, Annapurna region, Gandaki Province, Nepal

Snow-covered forest trail winding through tall Himalayan trees on the trek from Poon Hill towards Banthanti, Annapurna region, Gandaki Province, Nepal

Trekkers resting at Green Shankar Lodge and Restaurant, a mountain teahouse surrounded by flowering rhododendrons, with snow-covered Himalayan peaks in the background, along the trekking route from Poon Hill towards Banthanti, Annapurna region, Gandaki Province, Nepal

I would say today was my hardest day so far, with three steep ascents and the ice and snow. Most of the trail ran through forest, with views of snow-capped peaks between the branches. Huge forests of rhododendron trees will probably burst into bloom here in two weeks. Some trees are open, and many others have red buds starting to open. On our hike today, we also saw wild orchids, wild monkeys, and a deer (evidently rare; my guide had never seen one while trekking before).

Brilliant pink Himalayan rhododendrons (Rhododendron arboreum) flowering against the snow-covered peaks of the Annapurna Himalayas, along the trekking trail from Poon Hill towards Banthanti, Gandaki Province, Nepal

Himalayan grey langur (Semnopithecus schistaceus) perched in a moss-covered rhododendron tree along the trekking trail from Poon Hill towards Chuile, Annapurna Conservation Area, Gandaki Province, Nepal

Day 3 Hike of the Annapurna Circuit

Map of the route “Annapurna Trek Day 3: Today’s word is Treacherous”: 23,360 m, 980 m of climbing and 1,461 m of descent, elevation between 2,290 m and 3,102 m, time 09:53:03. It starts at 28.40319, 83.69986 and ends at 28.40453, 83.77869 (latitude, longitude).

Colourful Buddhist prayer flags fluttering beneath the towering snow-covered summit of Annapurna South (7,219 m), viewed along the trekking trail from Ghorepani towards Chuile, Annapurna Conservation Area, Gandaki Province, Nepal

At one point, while struggling up a steep hill, I told my guide I would never have survived the Everest Base Camp hike. Today, we reached a peak altitude of 3101m (a bit over 10,000 feet), and I found it very hard to climb. The Everest Base Camp reaches an altitude of 5500m (18,000 feet). He said I wouldn’t have had any problem with the Everest Base Camp hike because it takes longer and has a much more gradual ascent, which lets you acclimatise much better. You are supposed to climb only 300 meters a day at higher altitudes, but because the Annapurna Circuit is so hilly, they have no choice unless hikers really only want to hike 2 hours a day.

Sunlit veranda of a Himalayan trekking guesthouse near Chuile, with colourful potted plants, laundry drying in the mountain sunshine and spectacular views of the snow-covered Annapurna Himalayas, Annapurna Conservation Area, Gandaki Province, Nepal

By evening, only one couple from Israel showed up at the guesthouse (at about 2500m), also extremely fatigued from the day’s hike. We were also inundated with donkeys home from a tough day on the trails, ecstatic to have some time off. I’ve never seen mules roll around in the grass and run and play before.

Pack mules carrying supplies in red panniers, accompanied by their handler, along a steep, rocky mountain trail between Ghorepani and Chuile, Annapurna Conservation Area, Gandaki Province, Nepal

A brown Himalayan pack pony standing outside Mountain Discovery Lodge and Restaurant in Chhuille (Chuile), Annapurna Conservation Area, Gandaki Province, Nepal

Late afternoon sunlight streaming through the windows of a traditional Himalayan trekking guesthouse near Chuile, with panoramic views of the Annapurna mountains and surrounding valleys, Annapurna Conservation Area, Gandaki Province, Nepal

Late-afternoon sunlight illuminating a traditional Himalayan trekking guesthouse near Chuile, with a woman walking across the grassy courtyard, Annapurna Conservation Area, Gandaki Province, Nepal

Now halfway back down the mountain, tomorrow is supposed to be a short hiking day with a hot springs visit in the afternoon. Looking forward to that!

Traditional terraced farmland and scattered mountain villages on the steep Himalayan hillsides between Ghorepani and Chuile, Annapurna Conservation Area, Gandaki Province, Nepal

Annapurna, Nepal

Annapurna Trek Day 2: Stairs, Stairs, Stairs

February 27, 2013October 28, 2026 Joel

Terraced Rice Fields and Traditional Farming Village, Annapurna Region, Nepal

Started off bright and early before the other lodgers to tackle about a 3000+ stair climb and the hardest day of my 5 day trek. Or so I was told. One of the New Zealanders who I met this morning at breakfast said later in the day that it was the hardest hike he’s done in Nepal yet, and he’s been here hiking for quite a while now – so I guess it was! There was a lot of climbing, but I really didn’t think it was too hard – but it certainly helps to have someone carrying your pack for most of the way.

Hidden Waterfall and Turquoise Mountain Pool in the Annapurna Region, Nepal

Suspension Footbridge Decorated with Buddhist Prayer Flags, Annapurna Region, Nepal

Pack Mules Transporting Supplies Along a Rugged Himalayan Trail, Annapurna Trek, Nepal

Hiker Crossing a Wooden Footbridge over a Mountain Stream, Annapurna Region, Nepal

My guide’s name is Deepak, and he’s 21 years younger than me, so I don’t fret too much when I run out of breath, and he’s still quietly breathing through his nose. He was born and raised in a small village just like the ones we’ve been walking through, so he can explain what life is like for the locals from personal experience. He’s also a registered guide with the Nepalese government and completed 45 days of training in culture, history, flora, fauna, anthropology, first aid, and more.

Village Life in Winter – Locals Walking Along Snow-Covered Stone Steps, Annapurna Trek, Nepal

Woman Enjoying a Hot Drink Outside a Mountain Lodge, Ghorepani, Annapurna Region, Nepal

Traditional Rural Life – Villager Sorting and Preparing Plant Stalks Along the Annapurna Trek, Nepal

Himalayan Rhododendrons in Bloom with Annapurna Mountain Peaks in the Background, Nepal

Nepalese Children Playing Outside Their Home, Annapurna Region, Nepal

Nepalese Woman Carrying a Large Cooking Pot Through Snow-Covered Ghorepani, Annapurna Region, Nepal

Everyday Life in the Himalayas – Local Woman Walking Along a Traditional Stone-Paved Trail, Nepal

Day 2 Hike of the Annapurna Circuit

Map of the route “Annapurna Trek Day 2: Stairs, Stairs, Stairs”: 20,533 m, 1,401 m of climbing and 139 m of descent, elevation between 1,498 m and 2,767 m, time 06:55:53. It starts at 28.35148, 83.74261 and ends at 28.40327, 83.69999 (latitude, longitude).

Machhapuchhre (Fishtail Mountain, 6,993 m) Bathed in Late-Afternoon Sunlight, Annapurna Region, Nepal

It’s been an amazing hike so far, getting more and more Spectacular the higher you climb. And colder and colder. We ended the day’s 20km hike at a ridge (at 2760m), staring straight at the world’s 7th and 10th tallest mountains. Snow from last week covered the area around our guesthouse, and it was 10C in my room, but I had a wonderful private bathroom with a great hot shower, and I brought plenty of warm gear to put on.

Room with a View – Snow-Capped Annapurna Himalayas as seen from my Guesthouse Room in Ghorepani, Annapurna Region, Nepal

By evening, the guesthouse had a warm, cozy ski-lodge atmosphere when they lit a big fire in the dining room and served me hot vegetable curry over rice, masala tea, and hot apple crumble with custard for dessert.

Sunset Illuminating Annapurna South (7,219 metres or 23,684 feet) and the Himalayan Peaks, Ghorepani, Nepal

Annapurna South (7,219 m) Illuminated by Late-Afternoon Sunlight, Ghorepani, Nepal

Annapurna, Nepal

Annapurna Trek Day 1

February 26, 2013October 24, 2026 Joel

Early morning panoramic view across Pokhara, Nepal, showing colourful residential buildings, lush green gardens and surrounding forested hills, with the snow-capped Annapurna Himalaya visible in the distance

After an early morning rise, I started my five-day Annapurna Circuit trek with my guide/porter. He offered to carry my bag if I’d carry his much lighter one. Sounded good to me! We swap from time to time, but he seems happy to carry mine. He’s guessing it’s about 13 kilos, which really isn’t that bad – but his bag is only about 5 kilos.

The first rays of the morning sun illuminate the snow-covered slopes of Annapurna South (7,219 m), Annapurna Himalaya, viewed from Pokhara, Nepal

The first rays of the morning sun illuminating the summit of Machhapuchhre (Fishtail Mountain, 6,993 m), Annapurna Himalaya, viewed from Pokhara, Nepal

Today is the first really clear day I’ve seen in Nepal since I got here. Last night’s thunderstorms seemed to clear the skies. It was very nice to wake up this morning and see all the snow-capped mountains from my hotel room.

Early morning panoramic view of the snow-capped Annapurna massif, including Annapurna South (7,219 m) and Hiunchuli (6,441 m), rising above the forested Himalayan foothills near Pokhara, Nepal

A rocky mountain stream flows through a picturesque Himalayan valley, with a winding dirt road, scattered rural buildings and terraced farmland along the beginning of the Annapurna Circuit trekking route, Nepal

So far, the hike has involved a lot of climbing, but it’s been very tolerable with someone carrying my pack. The trail started as a dirt road, but became more of a mule track as we gained elevation. There are nice guesthouses all along the trail with comfortable mattresses, squat toilets, hot showers, meals, and electricity. So far, we have passed mostly terraced farm plots used for rice in summer and other crops like wheat and vegetables at other times of the year.

A Nepalese woman carries a heavy sack on her head along a rocky village path, followed by a young girl, near the beginning of the Annapurna Circuit trekking route, Nepal

A Nepalese woman washes clothes in the clear, fast-flowing waters of a rocky mountain stream near the beginning of the Annapurna Circuit trekking route, Nepal

My guide has been very nice, bright, and a good English speaker. He is from the country where his parents still live, but now lives in Kathmandu with his own family. He guides people regularly on the circuit I’m on, as well as on a more difficult, higher-altitude trek to Everest Base Camp. Today we climbed from about 800 meters to 1550 meters, taking the first few kilometres by taxi out of Pokhara and up to the Annapurna trailhead.

Traditional Nepalese guesthouses with colourful wooden balconies surrounding a stone-paved courtyard in a Himalayan village along the Annapurna Circuit trekking route, Nepal

My guide resting amongst traditional Nepalese guesthouses with colourful wooden balconies surrounding a stone-paved courtyard in a Himalayan village along the Annapurna Circuit trekking route, Nepal

A caravan of pack mules carrying supplies along a narrow, stone-paved street lined with traditional guesthouses in a Himalayan village on the Annapurna Circuit trekking route, Nepal

Day 1 Hike of the Annapurna Circuit

Map of the route “Annapurna Trek Day 1”: 10,576 m, 585 m of climbing and 112 m of descent, elevation between 1,026 m and 1,531 m, time 03:44:54. It starts at 28.29621, 83.76791 and ends at 28.34913, 83.74099 (latitude, longitude).

In the evening, the guides got together for a private dinner, but only after making sure their clients received their dinners, had all their questions answered, and had their needs addressed. I ended up eating and talking with a young American engineer from Minneapolis, working in India for six months, and his travelling companion from the UK, who met for the first time in Kathmandu a few days earlier.

Colourful Buddhist prayer flags hang above the sunlit wooden balcony of a traditional guesthouse overlooking a restaurant courtyard along the Annapurna Circuit trekking route, Nepal

A colourful flowering vine cascades over the windows of a traditional stone-roofed guesthouse, with potted geraniums and an outdoor washbasin in the courtyard along the Annapurna Circuit trekking route, Nepal

Chitwan, Nepal, Pokhara

Canoeing with Crocodiles

February 23, 2013October 23, 2026 Joel

On my last morning near Chitwan National Park, my hotel had me up extra early for a sunrise dugout-canoe cruise on a crocodile-infested river. How charming! Actually, it was incredibly beautiful, and we passed about 5-6 crocodiles along the way, lurking just below the surface or sunning themselves along the banks. Yes, they were dangerous, but no tourists have ever been bitten. We also saw quite a few deer down by the river for an early-morning drink. It wasn’t hard work. We just sat there while a man with a pole, Venice-style, guided our boat down the river’s proper channels.

Arranging the Deck Chairs on the Titanic, or at least a Traditional Dugout Canoe on the Ladhari River – Near Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Traditional Dugout Canoe on the Ladhari River – Near Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Canoeing with Crocodiles Safari

Map of the route “Canoeing with Crocodiles”: 5,629 m, 30 m of climbing and 37 m of descent, elevation between 238 m and 248 m, time 02:07:31. It starts at 27.59464, 84.48093 and ends at 27.58347, 84.46653 (latitude, longitude).

Mugger Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) Partially Submerged in the Ladhari River, near Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Male Indian Peafowl (Pavo cristatus) Walking Along the Banks of the Ladhari River, near Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Spotted Deer (Axis axis) Standing on the Banks of the Ladhari River, near Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Mugger Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) Resting on the Banks of the Ladhari River, near Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Afterwards, we ended up at an elephant breeding centre…

Young Asian Elephant (Elephas maximus) at the Khorsor Elephant Breeding Centre, near Sauraha, next to Chitwan National Park, Nepal.

Young Asian Elephants (Elephas maximus) at the Khorsor Elephant Breeding Centre, near Sauraha, next to Chitwan National Park, Nepal.

…much like the crocodile breeding centre we visited a day earlier on our jeep safari.

Juvenile Gharials (Gavialis gangeticus) at a Crocodile Breeding Centre near Chitwan National Park, Nepal

I enjoyed my stay in Chitwan, and I appreciated the red-carpet treatment from all the staff at my desperate hotel, but I was looking forward to getting away from all the attention. I was also getting sick of being overstuffed with food three times a day, as if I had to eat it all so as not to insult my hosts. They seemed to serve me the same thing every day, just in slightly different variations. I had chicken for every meal (except breakfast), and I suspect they bought one for me and carved a little off for each meal, mixing it with the same ingredients in different ways. The meals also seemed to get a little more westernised as we went, with chips thrown in, which wasn’t their forte and wasn’t what I wanted.

White-throated Kingfisher (Halcyon smyrnensis) Perched in a Tree Along the Ladhari River, near Chitwan National Park, Nepal

I also grew a bit wary of nighttime mosquito attacks. For the life of me, I couldn’t figure out how they were getting into my room, but they were constantly buzzing my ears to keep me away. It is malaria country, I was told back in Perth by my travel doctor, so I have been taking my expensive medication – but there are also other nasty illnesses that come from mosquitoes that I would rather not have anything to do with. I put up a mosquito net one night, but it wasn’t set up correctly without a hook in the ceiling, and the bed was too big for it, so I couldn’t be bothered to mess around with it the second night.

Great Egret (Ardea alba) Wading Among Aquatic Vegetation Along the Ladhari River, near Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Speaking of food, I’ve grown fond of one particular Nepali delicacy: Masala Tea. It is a blend of tea, cinnamon, and a few other spices (coriander?) blended with milk and sugar. I’ll have to figure out how they make it.

After my crocodile canoeing, my driver dutifully showed up to take me on another wild drive up to my next destination (seen below). This time to the central Nepali city of Pokhara. Pokhara is a backpacker’s haven and gateway to countless outdoor adventures in the middle of the country – including my trek along part of the Annapurna Circuit.

Sunset over the Snow-Capped Himalayas – Viewed from Chitwan National Park area in Nepal

It was a crazy drive, and my driver seemed a bit more aggressive than he was on the drive he did for me a few days ago. It was probably my fault for pushing back our departure time so I could go canoeing in the morning. I think it messed up his plans to get back to Kathmandu before dark.

Fortunately, when I arrived safe and sound in Pokhara at the sister guesthouse to my Kathmandu stay, they gave me their very best room on the top floor, with spectacular views over the city and lake district, and huge mountains looming in the background. It is probably the highest hotel in town, so it looks down on everything else. Hopefully they will have a similar room waiting for me when I get back from my hike!

The Drive from Chitwan National Park to Pokhara, Nepal

Map of the route “Canoeing with Crocodiles”: 138,841 m, 1,466 m of climbing and 851 m of descent, elevation between 186 m and 834 m, time 03:37:37. It starts at 27.58219, 84.49425 and ends at 28.20901, 83.96011 (latitude, longitude).

Poke Around Pokhara

Map of the route “Canoeing with Crocodiles”: 753 m, 10 m of climbing and 5 m of descent, elevation between 886 m and 890 m, time 00:10:27. It is a loop that starts and ends at 28.20928, 83.95774 (latitude, longitude).

Chitwan, Nepal

Safari City

February 22, 2013October 21, 2026 Joel

Asian Elephant (Elephas maximus) Carrying Riders Across the Ladhari River – Near Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Woke this morning to the smell of a burning spliff drifting from a nearby farmer’s field. Perhaps he was just burning off a crop in the cool, damp early morning hours. Today was safari day, and first up after breakfast was the safari-on-an-elephant’s-back safari. I have been on the back of an elephant’s back before and know two things:

It’s not the most comfortable experience, continually rocking back and forth and side to side, and
It is not very ideal for trying to take pictures and change lenses with big, bulky cameras.

I reluctantly agreed to do the elephant ride as long as I could also do a jeep ride when I negotiated my tour with my Kathmandu hotel manager.

Elephant Stables at Sunset – Near Sauraha, Chitwan, Nepal

Elephant Safari on a Male Asian Elephant – Near Sauraha, Chitwan, Nepal

Elephant Mahout Riding an Asian Elephant (Elephas maximus) – Near Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Elephant Safari Snack Shop from the back of a male Asian Elephant – Near Sauraha, Chitwan, Nepal

As it turned out, it was actually a really good way to see the wildlife. We weren’t permitted inside the national park, but we could explore trails in the surrounding buffer zone. Because elephants are native to the area, the other wildlife didn’t seem to flinch when we approached. I’m not even sure they knew humans were on the elephants’ backs! I got very close to a wide range of native wild animals, including a big adult rhino and lots of deer, just chilling out in the shelter of the forest.

Spotted Deer (Chital, Axis axis) – Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Greater One-Horned Rhinoceros (Rhinoceros unicornis) – Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Elephant Safari Walk

Map of the route “Safari City”: 3,185 m, 18 m of climbing and 23 m of descent, elevation between 180 m and 187 m, time 01:33:13. It is a loop that starts and ends at 27.59412, 84.48109 (latitude, longitude).

Afterwards, I was taken to where the elephants are rewarded for slugging 5 people around on their backs for 2 hours: a bath. They love water, so they walk them down to the river to drink countless gallons, spray, and submerge themselves to cool off and clean up. They let tourists stand on the elephants’ backs for the experience of getting a good-luck nostril spray, but I declined, not knowing how clean or sanitary the river was, or how sanitary it was to have elephant snot fired at you.

Asian Elephant (Elephas maximus) Being Bathed by a Mahout – Rapti River, Near Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Asian Elephant (Elephas maximus) Spraying Water During Bathing – Rapti River, Near Chitwan National Park, Nepal

In the afternoon, I headed out for a jeep-based safari that actually went into the national park for four hours. The safari required us to paddle across a river in dugout canoes to reach the cheap Indian Tata vehicles.

Traditional Dugout Canoes on the Rapti River at Sunset – Near Sauraha, Chitwan, Nepal

Traditional Dugout Canoe on the Rapti River at Sunset – Near Sauraha, Chitwan, Nepal

Unlike my solo safari in Sri Lanka, I shared the vehicle with six others, though they were all very nice and as interested as I was. British, New Zealanders, and Germans were on board. At first we weren’t having much luck, possibly because it was a warmer-than-average mid-February day, but as we headed back and things cooled off, we saw all kinds of great things. There were several rhinos, an Asian bison, an Asian bear with two cubs on her back, countless deer, wild boars, numerous peacocks, lots of crocodiles, several monkeys, but no tigers! The tigers are supposed to be pretty rare, but just over the border in India, there are quite a few. All in all, I’d say it was a very good day.

Gharial (Gavialis gangeticus) lurking under the surface of a river in Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Wild Water Buffalo (Bubalus arnee) in Tall Grass – Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Sambar Deer (Rusa unicolor) Resting in Forest Undergrowth – in Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Sloth Bear (Melursus ursinus) with cubs on her back, in Tall Grass – Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Asian Openbill Storks (Anastomus oscitans) Nesting in a Tree – Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Indian Peafowl (Pavo cristatus), or Peacock, flying out of a tree – Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Chitwan National Park Jeep Safari

Map of the route “Safari City”: 46,147 m, 230 m of climbing and 199 m of descent, elevation between 174 m and 209 m, time 05:28:40. It is a loop that starts and ends at 27.58234, 84.49435 (latitude, longitude).

Chitwan, Nepal

Pothead and Peacock Central

February 21, 2013October 17, 2026 Joel

I woke up early in the chilly Kathmandu air to wolf down breakfast and meet my driver so we could head to Sauraha, near Chitwan National Park in south-central Nepal, close to the Indian border. It was about a 4-hour drive on mainly switchback mountain roads, descending about 1200 meters back to the warm, sunny plains. Although the traffic didn’t seem quite as crazy as in Sri Lanka, there were some horrible-looking accidents and many broken-down trucks and buses left in the middle of the narrow road for everyone to try to navigate around. At times, landslides made road conditions atrocious, likely due to the summer monsoon season. Lots of dried, muddy stretches with massive potholes. As it turns out, the road is the main drag between Kathmandu and India.

The Drive from Kathmandu to Chitwan National Park

Map of the route “Pothead and Peacock Central”: 149,761 m, 947 m of climbing and 2,061 m of descent, elevation between 193 m and 1,466 m, time 04:57:19. It starts at 27.71242, 85.31145 and ends at 27.58223, 84.49427 (latitude, longitude).

I arrived at a compound behind a gate with staff members dressed like Gurkha soldiers. Probably not a coincidence, since Gurkha is a town just up the road. The gate rolled open and about five guys descended on me with juice on a tray and help with my bags. The manager greeted me in the reception area. He proceeded to sit down with me and go over, point-by-point, my schedule (with military precision) for the two days that I’m there. I will be woken early in the morning for safaris, canoe trips, elephant rides, etc. All meals will be provided during my stay at precise times.

Mahouts Riding Asian Elephants Through the Streets of Sauraha – Chitwan, Nepal

Oddly, while it is a moderately sized compound, I didn’t see any other tourists staying here. I have all these staff members at my beck and call, but it looks like they have no one else to serve. They seem very eager to please! Perhaps it’s a new hotel, and they are keen to establish their reputation.

The hotel room itself is like many I have come across in my travels through Sri Lanka and Nepal. On the surface, it looks modern and well presented, but you soon notice many broken and unfinished things. The TV doesn’t work, the air conditioning doesn’t work, you sit on the bed, and a large slat falls to the floor beneath you, there is barely any water pressure, the sink fixtures aren’t secured to the counter, etc. You simply pretend not to notice and, when asked, say you think everything is great!

By the time my late afternoon tour rolled around, it became apparent that I was, in fact, their only guest. It is a little weird to have an army of staff constantly standing around watching me eat and asking individually whether everything was okay. One guy in particular seems to take me on a tour every day. He is very nice and quite passionate about the local culture here in the flatlands and the area’s wildlife, which is always nice. He’s not from the area, so he sees things as an outsider, too.

Male Asian Elephant with Long Tusks – Near Sauraha, Chitwan, Nepal

Among the interesting aspects of the neighbourhood are patches of marijuana freely growing everywhere. The locals were harvesting bunches to sell on to India and Kathmandu – even though it is still illegal here. They didn’t even mind me taking pictures of them working their crop, stopping to smile proudly next to their piles of freshly cut weed.

Cannabis (Cannabis sativa) Growing near Sauraha, Chitwan District, Nepal

Cannabis (Cannabis sativa) Harvest near Sauraha, Chitwan District, Nepal

Chitwan National Park is another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Evidently, Nepal has more UNESCO World Heritage Sites than any other country in the world, so much so that it is not permitted to have any more. The park is supposed to have elephants, rhinos, tigers, deer, peacocks, and plenty of other exotic birds. I will see what I can find tomorrow.

Tharu Cultural Dance Performance – Sauraha, Chitwan, Nepal

In the evening, they took me to a town hall where locals performed traditional dances for tourists. Most of the dances required tight coordination because sticks flew around, smacking into each other, each held by a different dancer. One wrong move and someone’s head was going to get split open. Fortunately, that didn’t happen!

Short Tour around Sauraha, Nepal

Map of the route “Pothead and Peacock Central”: 3,631 m, 32 m of climbing and 32 m of descent, elevation between 173 m and 179 m, time 01:58:16. It starts at 27.57710, 84.49511 and ends at 27.58218, 84.49397 (latitude, longitude).

Tharu Woman Winnowing Grain Using a Traditional Bamboo Sieve – Near Sauraha, Chitwan, Nepal

Elderly Woman at the Doorway of a Traditional Village Home – Near Sauraha, Chitwan, Nepal

Kathmandu, Nepal

The Back Streets of Kathmandu

February 20, 2013October 15, 2026 Joel

The walk to and from Durbar Square was really cool, with shops selling butchered meat, produce, cloth, metalwork, grains, and other local staples. Retailers still relied on balancing scales with weights to determine pricing. Very crowded, narrow lanes were packed with people, motorcycles, bikes, and the occasional car. After seeing the raw flesh lying out in front of the butchers without any refrigeration for hours, I think I will probably return to being a vegetarian again while I’m here!

Everyday Street Life Among Traditional Brick Buildings in Kathmandu – Nepal

Traditional Brass and Copperware Shop on a Busy Street – Kathmandu, Nepal

Street Vendors Selling Fresh Vegetables at a Traditional Market – Kathmandu, Nepal

Everyday Street Life Outside a Traditional Grocery and Dry Goods Market – Kathmandu, Nepal

Woman Selling Grains and Pulses at a Traditional Market – Kathmandu, Nepal

Walking the Back Alleys and Markets of Kathmandu, Nepal

Map of the route “The Back Streets of Kathmandu”: 4,876 m, 47 m of climbing and 58 m of descent, elevation between 1,290 m and 1,320 m, time 03:04:50. It is a loop that starts and ends at 27.71297, 85.31171 (latitude, longitude).

Afterwards, I had my momo dumplings for lunch. Made sure they were meat-free. They were very nice and came with a tangy dipping sauce. I hear I will be eating them quite regularly in the mountains.

Woman Selling Fresh Greens from Woven Baskets on a Kathmandu Street – Nepal

Traditional Grocery Shop with Bicycle – Kathmandu, Nepal

Traditional Grocery and Dry Goods Shop – Kathmandu, Nepal

Kathmandu is known for its horrendous air pollution from old cars, low-quality fuel, and surrounding mountains (which you often can’t even see through the smog). Lonely Planet actually advises you to bring a face mask and tells you that you’re likely to have a throat infection after a few days. One of the characteristics of Nepalese men that I noticed in the men’s toilets back at the Bangkok airport is that they like to hack and spit, which is disgusting, but possibly related to living in such a polluted environment. They do it constantly in the streets of Kathmandu. Fortunately, Pokhara is supposed to be much cleaner, so I’m looking forward to my travels onward tomorrow.

Kathmandu, Nepal

Durbar Square

February 20, 2013October 15, 2026 Joel

After my usual rooftop breakfast, part of my accommodation deal and a bit chilly first thing in the morning, I planned to visit Durbar Square. Durbar Square is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (one of many in Nepal) and renowned for its architectural styles. It is a compound of Hindu and Buddhist temples built between the 12th and 18th centuries. I didn’t think Nepal was too bad on the hustling front until I visited this place; then I found them everywhere! Hustling you for tours, trinkets, donations – you name it. Then they try to give you the guilt trip when you turn them down.

Hanuman Dhoka Royal Palace and Gaddi Baithak, Kathmandu Durbar Square, Nepal

Nasal Chowk Courtyard and Traditional Palace Architecture, Hanuman Dhoka Royal Palace, Kathmandu Durbar Square, Nepal

Panch Mukhi Hanuman Temple and Royal Palace Courtyard, Hanuman Dhoka, Kathmandu Durbar Square, Nepal

Inside the complex, it was nice and peaceful because the hustlers weren’t allowed in. Some of the wood carvings on the building facades were quite amazing. Inside was a museum with endless photos and relics from the last Nepalese king, who died in 2001.

Intricate Newari Woodcarvings and Decorative Brickwork, Hanuman Dhoka Royal Palace, Kathmandu Durbar Square, Nepal

Part of the fun of visiting the square was walking through the marketplaces to get there. After getting lost in Bangkok and going way off course, I started entering coordinates into my GPS watch so I always knew I was heading in the right direction. It is a little bit of a pain to set up, but very nice to use when you need it. It requires me to track down the exact coordinates for where I want to go (which can be tricky on an iPad, but major landmarks have their coordinates published on Wikipedia). I then need to convert them to the format my watch wants (there are 3, and Wikipedia publishes only 2), which means visiting a GPS calculator site I know and tediously entering the correct numbers on my watch. Once the coordinates are in, the watch can easily display an arrow pointing me in the direction I want to go. Getting back is easy because it is much easier to have it direct you to a place you have already been through its waypoint recording feature.

Traditional Red-Brick Palace Architecture, Hanuman Dhoka Royal Palace, Kathmandu Durbar Square, Nepal

Anyway, I’m sure glad I used it this morning because I set off in the completely opposite direction, convinced it was the right way. I thought something was wrong with my watch when I suddenly realised I was totally disoriented. It doesn’t give turn-by-turn directions, but you can guess what streets to go down by keeping an eye on the arrow.

Kathmandu, Nepal

A quiet day in Kathmandu

February 19, 2013October 14, 2026 Joel

Street Vendors Selling Colourful Marigold Garlands and Flowers in Kathmandu, Nepal

A nationwide strike is in effect all day today. This has forced all shops to close and most traffic to quietly disappear. People are still walking the streets, possibly with nowhere to go, and some marches with people chanting took place earlier this morning. I also heard a low-flying police/military helicopter buzz overhead around lunchtime. My hotel advised me not to leave the immediate neighbourhood, so I snuck out for lunch nearby but will likely stay indoors for the rest of the day. The strike seems to be about an upcoming June election that some people don’t think should go ahead.

Elevated View of a Busy Street in Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal, with the Himalayan Foothills in the Distance

So far, I’ve been eating local food, which has been great and similar to Indian or Sri Lankan food. The menu has a few other local delicacies, like momos, little dumplings, that I hope to try soon. The Nepalese people have been very friendly, with little hustling, other than a few odd drug dealers and mysterious dance-club herders on the streets, targeting the few tourists they can find this time of year.

Fortunately, I worked out a plan for my visit with my hotel. Instead of throwing all my eggs in the Everest Base Camp hike basket everyone has been prodding me to do (which would have taken all my Nepalese time, lots of money, and been extra cold and snowy to do this time of year, climbing to 5000+ meters), I’ve opted for a bit more variety.

I’ve decided to head to Chitwan National Park with another personal driver and another safari (both in a 4WD and on an elephant’s back). Afterwards, my driver will take me to the scenic city of Pokhara, by a big lake and surrounded by huge mountains. In Pokhara, I will do a nearby 5-day trek along some of the nicest sections of the famous Annapurna Circuit, which normally takes an entire month to complete. Trekking in Nepal consists of hiking from teahouse to teahouse for meals and comfortable accommodation, so minimal gear should need to be carried. I will have a personal guide for the trek, but I probably won’t need a sherpa. Afterwards, I will stay in Pokhara for several more days, hopefully getting some mountain biking in, before flying back to Kathmandu for a few days and then flying out to Korea.

Colourful Bead and Jewellery Shops in Old Kathmandu – Nepal

By the evening, the strike appeared to have ended, and the shops began to open again. It is quite an amazing little neighbourhood here in Thamel. All the streets are like little alleyways, lined on either side with countless shops selling crafts, counterfeit outdoor gear, maps, books, and food. The lane-ways are decorated above with strings of little flags that crisscross back and forth. There are absolutely no franchise stores anywhere, except for an oddly placed Baskin Robbins stand and countless fake The North Face stores.

For dinner, I had the pleasure of eating at a little restaurant across the lane, run by a few Japanese guys training up some local Nepalese. The place was packed, and they forced me to eat at a breakfast bar in their kitchen. It was interesting to watch them cook my meal in front of me and see how frantic they were, trying to keep up with everyone else’s orders. Lots of fried garlic smoke to choke on, but lots of fun.

Kathmandu, Nepal

Dog man can but cat man do

February 19, 2013October 13, 2026 Joel

Colourful Buddhist Prayer Flags Draped Around a Stupa, Kathmandu, Nepal

Had to get up early to catch my flight to Kathmandu. Not that the plane was leaving that early, but getting to the gate always takes hours. At the last moment, I realised I was probably a bit short on Thai Baht for a taxi from my hotel, so I decided to hoof it to the nearest Skytrain to see if I could get to the airport by public transport. Even though I had to hike a bit with all my luggage and make 3 train transfers, it worked out pretty smoothly in the end.

Colourful Flags Above a Busy Street in Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal

The pack I’m using has been lying dormant since my last big trip, but I really appreciate its versatility and flexibility. It is canvas, which is a bit heavy for hiking, but durable enough for baggage handlers. The shoulder straps tuck away behind a zipper flap so they don’t get caught in airport luggage machinery, but when you need them for hiking distances and jockeying between trains, they’re nice to have.

Panoramic View of Kathmandu's Colourful Urban Rooftops with the Himalayan Foothills in the Distance, Nepal — Panoramic View of Kathmandu’s Colourful Urban Rooftops with the Himalayan Foothills in the Distance, Nepal

Just a short flight from Bangkok to Kathmandu. Relatively speaking, anyway: 4 hours. The plane was deserted. A 777 with 9 seats across and only one other person in my row! Not exactly peak season for visiting Nepal. The flight in was quite spectacular because it flies over flat India, and you notice the hills starting to climb as you cross into Nepal. Soon enough, you are flying just above some pretty spectacular mountains as the plane starts to descend. Of course you think, “Where are they going to land this thing with this terrain?” but then the hills level off as you enter the Kathmandu valley, and you can see the big flat runway on the plain.

Flight from Bangkok into Kathmandu

Map of the route “Dog man can but cat man do”: 2,341,768 m, 2,619 m of climbing and 1,130 m of descent, elevation between 8 m and 2,293 m, time 03:35:42. It starts at 13.69025, 100.74381 and ends at 27.69878, 85.35799 (latitude, longitude).

Since Kathmandu is down in a valley, it isn’t as cold as you would expect in February. But at 1500 meters, it certainly is a lot cooler than what I’ve been travelling through over the past 2.5 months. No more hot, sweaty tropics for a while, which is a bit of a relief. Kathmandu seems like a crazy place, with Sri Lankan-style traffic chaos and even worse roads. Some of the city streets look like mud. I would hate to see what they’re like in the monsoon season.

Traditional Nepalese Masks, Handicrafts and Colourful Textiles at a Street Market in Kathmandu, Nepal

I had arranged for my hotel to have a driver meet me at the airport. He took me to this groovy little section of town, with skinny little alleys running everywhere, full of craft shops and backpacker guest houses. I’m one of very few guests in my hotel at the moment. Peak season is October, November, and December, but this is supposed to be the second-best time to be here.

Traditional Nepalese Handicraft and Souvenir Shops Displaying Carpets, Textiles and Artwork in Kathmandu, Nepal

A few facts of life in Kathmandu have already made appearances here. Rolling blackouts happen every day of the week. About 8 hours on and 8 hours off. The streets go dark, but most hotels and shops run on generated or stored solar power, so things go on as usual. Also, there are frequent strikes here, and you are advised not to leave your hotel. My guest house manager told me one is planned for tomorrow, but I haven’t been able to confirm it online, so I guess I’ll have to play it by ear.

Month: February 2013

Annapurna Trek Day 3: Today’s word is Treacherous

Annapurna Trek Day 2: Stairs, Stairs, Stairs

Annapurna Trek Day 1

Canoeing with Crocodiles

Safari City

Pothead and Peacock Central

The Back Streets of Kathmandu

Durbar Square

A quiet day in Kathmandu

Dog man can but cat man do

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