Ayuthaya Province, Bangkok, Thailand

Clash of Classes

Back street commuters in Bangkok, Thailand
Back street commuters in Bangkok, Thailand

I had quite the clash of classes between yesterday and today. After spending a long day pounding the hot pavement of Bangkok, I decided to treat myself to that King Kong movie I had noted on my previous visit.

Before I go any further, let me just say Kong is King. ‘Nuff said.

Anyway, I bought that deluxe “Gold Pass” ticket I mentioned earlier. For about the price of a regular movie ticket in Australia, I got to sit in a special theatre full of huge reclining sofa chairs. No need to exert any energy to recline them; mind you, these babies had electronic push-button controls to get them into whatever exact contortions you desired. Each seat came with its own pillow and blanket set, so you could snuggle up extra-comfy in that chilly, air-conditioned darkness. Next to your seat was a personal hardwood table for holding your popcorn, snacks, Coke, or bar drink. There were waiters prowling the theatre to attend to your every need.

Before the film started, we were entitled to hang out in this luxurious lounge with a free open bar and snacks. The movie had Thai subtitles, and there was that glitzy tribute to the King of Siam before the show started (for which everyone was expected to stand). It seemed that the audience was predominantly made up of Western tourists. I couldn’t help but think it was all a bit frivolous, really.

Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Mother and child praying at the Buddha head in the sacred Bodhi Tree, Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Mother and child praying at the Buddha head in the sacred Bodhi Tree, Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand

And then came today, when I rose early and made a mad dash for the Bangkok train station so I could get out to the “must-see” historic Wat (Buddhist temple) filled Ayutthaya Historical Park for a three-day stay in a finely restored teak guesthouse overlooking a peaceful frog-filled lily-pad-laden pond.

Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand

The only seats available on this 1.5-hour train trip were third class. This meant hard bench-type seating with no air conditioning or ventilation other than through open windows. The view wasn’t bad (seeing as you had nothing between you and outside to look through), but you just had to be careful not to stick your arm out there. Occasionally a beam or bridge girder would fly past without any warning.

Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand

Even though I had a reserved seat, it seemed at least half the people on the train were forced to stand for their entire journey. Most of the passengers were Thais, but there were quite a few Western backpackers as well. My guess is they filled up the seats and just continued selling standing-room-only tickets. Fortunately, the trip was an early one and not too hot. I hate to think what a later afternoon train ride must have been like.

Buddha Head in Sacred Bodhi Tree, Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Buddha Head in Sacred Bodhi Tree, Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand

It seems much hotter here in Ayutthaya than it was in Bangkok. It must be due to the lack of smog in Bangkok, which filters out the sun’s rays. I only managed a short hike around some of the ruins today before I was forced to retreat to my guesthouse, sweating profusely. There isn’t any air-conditioning in my room, but the house was designed to be cool, with high walls that don’t quite reach the ceiling, polished hardwood floors raised above ground on stilts, and big, breezy windows — all with air circulation in mind. I do have a ceiling fan as well. I plan to get up early tomorrow (before it gets too hot) so I can take a cycle ride around town and visit more ruins.

Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand

I plan to stay here for three nights before moving on to one of the world’s allegedly best national parks. It’s chock full of wildlife, including elephants and tigers! The guesthouse I’m aiming for sounds like it has some interesting tours (including nocturnal ones).

Elephant Refuge near Ayutthaya, Thailand
Elephant Refuge near Ayutthaya, Thailand

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