Ayuthaya Province, Bangkok, Thailand

Clash of Classes

Back street commuters in Bangkok, Thailand
Back street commuters in Bangkok, Thailand

I had quite the clash of classes between yesterday and today. After spending a long day pounding the hot pavement of Bangkok, I decided to treat myself to that King Kong movie I had noted on my previous visit.

Before I go any further, let me just say Kong is King. ‘Nuff said.

Anyway, I bought that deluxe “Gold Pass” ticket I mentioned earlier. For about the price of a regular movie ticket in Australia, I got to sit in a special theatre full of huge reclining sofa chairs. No need to exert any energy to recline them; mind you, these babies had electronic push-button controls to get them into whatever exact contortions you desired. Each seat came with its own pillow and blanket set, so you could snuggle up extra-comfy in that chilly, air-conditioned darkness. Next to your seat was a personal hardwood table for holding your popcorn, snacks, Coke, or bar drink. There were waiters prowling the theatre to attend to your every need.

Before the film started, we were entitled to hang out in this luxurious lounge with a free open bar and snacks. The movie had Thai subtitles, and there was that glitzy tribute to the King of Siam before the show started (for which everyone was expected to stand). It seemed that the audience was predominantly made up of Western tourists. I couldn’t help but think it was all a bit frivolous, really.

Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Mother and child praying at the Buddha head in the sacred Bodhi Tree, Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Mother and child praying at the Buddha head in the sacred Bodhi Tree, Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand

And then came today, when I rose early and made a mad dash for the Bangkok train station so I could get out to the “must-see” historic Wat (Buddhist temple) filled Ayutthaya Historical Park for a three-day stay in a finely restored teak guesthouse overlooking a peaceful frog-filled lily-pad-laden pond.

Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand

The only seats available on this 1.5-hour train trip were third class. This meant hard bench-type seating with no air conditioning or ventilation other than through open windows. The view wasn’t bad (seeing as you had nothing between you and outside to look through), but you just had to be careful not to stick your arm out there. Occasionally a beam or bridge girder would fly past without any warning.

Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand

Even though I had a reserved seat, it seemed at least half the people on the train were forced to stand for their entire journey. Most of the passengers were Thais, but there were quite a few Western backpackers as well. My guess is they filled up the seats and just continued selling standing-room-only tickets. Fortunately, the trip was an early one and not too hot. I hate to think what a later afternoon train ride must have been like.

Buddha Head in Sacred Bodhi Tree, Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Buddha Head in Sacred Bodhi Tree, Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand

It seems much hotter here in Ayutthaya than it was in Bangkok. It must be due to the lack of smog in Bangkok, which filters out the sun’s rays. I only managed a short hike around some of the ruins today before I was forced to retreat to my guesthouse, sweating profusely. There isn’t any air-conditioning in my room, but the house was designed to be cool, with high walls that don’t quite reach the ceiling, polished hardwood floors raised above ground on stilts, and big, breezy windows — all with air circulation in mind. I do have a ceiling fan as well. I plan to get up early tomorrow (before it gets too hot) so I can take a cycle ride around town and visit more ruins.

Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand

I plan to stay here for three nights before moving on to one of the world’s allegedly best national parks. It’s chock full of wildlife, including elephants and tigers! The guesthouse I’m aiming for sounds like it has some interesting tours (including nocturnal ones).

Elephant Refuge near Ayutthaya, Thailand
Elephant Refuge near Ayutthaya, Thailand
Bangkok, Thailand

Bleary Eyed in Bangkok…

Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya Historical Park, Ayutthaya, Thailand

My 18-hour air odyssey has come to a close. The longest flight of my life! We flew nonstop north from L.A., passing just west of Gilroy (a little east of Watsonville), up over Anchorage, Alaska, deep over Russia, down diagonally across China (which is one big country), and finally over Vietnam and into Bangkok at sunrise. It was nighttime outside the whole way as we followed the dark side of the earth. It was the longest night of my life, I think.

Thai Airways wasn’t a bad way to go… They stuffed us full with three meals that seemed too big to fit on our trays. We had the usual personal movies and TV on demand, and they gave us comfortable seats with lots of leg room (for economy, anyway). I managed to get about five hours of sleep and took another nap on arrival at my guesthouse.

Buddhist Monks picking up supplies in Ayutthaya, Thailand
Buddhist Monks picking up supplies in Ayutthaya, Thailand

I’m now scrambling to come up with local travel plans for my next few weeks here in Thailand. While getting a cheap haircut, I just bumped into a guy who serves lunches over the counter at a shop I visit 3000+ miles away in Perth. Small world…

California, United States

A culturally obligatory pitstop

Big Sur, California
Big Sur, California

Aside from family activities, the biggest highlight of my visit to the U.S. on this trip was the drive up and down through Big Sur in California. I’ve done the drive before, but not in about 16 years. I still remembered the lesson I learned from my previous drive: always fill up the tank before you start either end. You can always buy fuel along the way, but any time you pull into a service station with padlocks on the pumps and signs that say “No Self Service”, you know you’re in for sticker shock. I had the same nasty experience driving out to Uluru in Central Australia from the Stuart Highway. Those fuel prices were the highest I came across driving around Australia in 2004.

Big Sur, California
Big Sur, California
Big Sur, California
Big Sur, California
Big Sur, California
Big Sur, California

Anyway, January seemed like a nice time to enjoy the twists and turns and spectacular misty views of Big Sur without the usual horde of tourists. Among the more interesting discoveries was a huge California condor perched on a railing at a scenic turnout overlooking one of the peaks of the mountainous drive. In case you’re curious, they’re actually butt ugly. And I also stumbled across a huge colony of elephant seals and their newborns on a beach just north of San Simeon. They seemed quite ensconced there, with a newly built boardwalk overlooking them. Obviously I wasn’t the first to find them. It seemed designed to protect them from human spectators.

Elephant Seals rest on beach near San Simeon, California
Elephant Seals rest on beach near San Simeon, California
Elephant Seals rest on beach near San Simeon, California
Elephant Seals rest on beach near San Simeon, California

Well, it came time to temporarily tuck that wilderness stuff away and make the culturally obligatory visit up to Hearst Castle. I had never been there before (usually speeding past), but I found the place equally compelling and repulsive. I have to admit I felt a bit biased against Randolph Hearst after seeing Citizen Kane recently. On the one hand, it was interesting to see the place the movie was supposedly based on. And it was interesting to see some of the antiquities and artworks Hearst collected, along with the Art Deco styling of the era. On the other hand, the whole concept of frivolously blowing this kind of money on something for just himself and his friends, and then having it end up as a $20 amusement park for the general public was a bit nauseating.

Hearst Castle, San Simeon, California
Hearst Castle, San Simeon, California
Hearst Castle, San Simeon, California
Hearst Castle, San Simeon, California
View from the Hearst Castle, San Simeon, California
View from the Hearst Castle, San Simeon, California

Probably the most priceless aspect of the tour was just overhearing the lame banter among the other tourists. Comments like “How would you like to wake up and view that every day!” and “If you had all the money in the world…” were repeated. The staff weren’t any better. Most acted like it was a Disneyland tour (another culturally obligatory visit I’ve been putting off). They were trying to sell portraits of visitors at the entrance. “But what good’s a photo without Mickey?”, I should have asked. And a long line of tour guides all waved goodbye to us in unison at the top of the hill when our bus pulled out. Maybe they were mechanical, as I suspected.

Hearst Castle, San Simeon, California
Hearst Castle, San Simeon, California

The whole experience left me longing to visit the Getty Museum in Los Angeles when I got there. I figured it would be a bit of a contrast to see how two millionaires spent their wads. One for good (or at least it came good in the end for Getty, with free admission for the public to see their vast collection of artworks), and the other for evil, in the case of the purely capitalist Hearst Castle.

Other stops in California included:

Pinnacles National Park near Soledad, California
Pinnacles National Park near Soledad, California
Pinnacles National Park near Soledad, California
Pinnacles National Park near Soledad, California
California Beach near Watsonville, California
California Beach near Watsonville, California
California Beach Dune near Watsonville, California
California Beach Dune near Watsonville, California
Bangkok, Thailand

Santa’s comin’ to town on the back of an elephant…

Spent most of the day walking my dogs off while Christmas shopping. Not much mention of Christmas ’round these Buddhist parts… Not like Singapore, which always gets extra high-tech and glitzy this time of year. Or Kuala Lumpur — even though it’s a Muslim country. New Year’s gets a mention here in Bangkok, but that is probably aimed more at the Chinese population. You just get the odd-sounding Christmas tune in department stores. That’s about it, here in ninety-degree heat. Actually, the weather’s been quite ideal (and perhaps a bit cooler). Nice, dry, warm, and sunny. What Perth should be like right now.

Jim Thompson's House in Bangkok, Thailand
Jim Thompson’s House in Bangkok, Thailand

Before I hit the markets and shops, I spent a few hours checking out old Jim Thompson’s place. Jimbo’s a Yank who’s credited with opening up Thailand’s silk trade. He studied architecture at Princeton before being sent to Thailand during WWII (the big one) to conduct espionage. Jimbo decided to return to Bangkok after the war ’cause he fell in love with the place. He decided to make a living by promoting Thai silk around the world. Considered quite the hero for it.

Jim Thompson's House in Bangkok, Thailand
Jim Thompson’s House in Bangkok, Thailand
Gardens at Jim Thompson's House, Bangkok, Thailand
Gardens at Jim Thompson’s House, Bangkok, Thailand
Gardens at Jim Thompson's House, Bangkok, Thailand
Gardens at Jim Thompson’s House, Bangkok, Thailand
Interior of Jim Thompson's House in Bangkok, Thailand
Interior of Jim Thompson’s House in Bangkok, Thailand
Interior of Jim Thompson's House in Bangkok, Thailand
Interior of Jim Thompson’s House in Bangkok, Thailand
Interior of Jim Thompson's House in Bangkok, Thailand
Interior of Jim Thompson’s House in Bangkok, Thailand
Interior of Jim Thompson's House in Bangkok, Thailand
Interior of Jim Thompson’s House in Bangkok, Thailand
Gardens at Jim Thompson's House, Bangkok, Thailand
Gardens at Jim Thompson’s House, Bangkok, Thailand
Gardens at Jim Thompson's House, Bangkok, Thailand
Gardens at Jim Thompson’s House, Bangkok, Thailand

Jim Thompson is actually the second American I’ve come across in the past 18 months responsible for opening up a foreign country’s trade. The first being Tom Price in Western Australia, who is credited with opening Australia’s mining industry to exports. Anyway, Jimbo collected traditional Thai buildings and resurrected them on his old property, which is now a nice museum, just around the block from my guesthouse. Jimbo (as I’ve obviously come to call him) mysteriously disappeared while on vacation in Malaysia in the 1960’s. Adds to his legend status, I guess.

Gardens at Jim Thompson's House, Bangkok, Thailand
Gardens at Jim Thompson’s House, Bangkok, Thailand
Gardens at Jim Thompson's House, Bangkok, Thailand
Gardens at Jim Thompson’s House, Bangkok, Thailand
Gardens at Jim Thompson's House, Bangkok, Thailand
Gardens at Jim Thompson’s House, Bangkok, Thailand
Gardens at Jim Thompson's House, Bangkok, Thailand
Gardens at Jim Thompson’s House, Bangkok, Thailand
Gardens at Jim Thompson's House, Bangkok, Thailand
Gardens at Jim Thompson’s House, Bangkok, Thailand

One of the many interesting things about Jim Thompson’s place was that the main house was positioned so that its front door faced a narrow canal that ran the length of inner Bangkok. The premises may have been tucked away back up some alley, but in the day it was built, the canal system was the preferred mode of transportation in this city. Bangkok was known as the “Venice of the East”. To this day, regular long boats frequently ferry passengers back and forth on these canals. And unlike the few remaining cable cars of San Francisco, the people who ride these boats aren’t predominantly tourists.

Khlong Saen Saep Canal Boat Service, Bangkok, Thailand
Khlong Saen Saep Canal Boat Service, Bangkok, Thailand

Had another nice cheap Thai meal tonight. Maybe $2 this time. Funny thing I’ve learned about Thais. When they say spicy, they mean burn-your-mouth-off and sweat-a-gallon spicy. But when they say “not spicy”, I still find the food about as hot as anything labelled “spicy” in Western supermarkets. Guess their taste buds are too burned off to recognise mild spices anymore. ‘Course, the cure for an overly hot Thai meal is a nice scoop of coconut ice cream.

Saw an ad in the paper today for my flight to Los Angeles tomorrow. It’s a brand-new, spanking-new plane with a personal entertainment system at each seat. Hopefully that will help break up the monotony of the 15-hour non-stop flight. Maybe I’ve got that wrong, though — it could be quite fast, since it’s scheduled to arrive in Los Angeles 20 minutes before it leaves Bangkok.

Bangkok, Thailand

My Bangkok Hangover…

Buddhist Temple, Bangkok, Thailand
Buddhist Temple, Bangkok, Thailand

Well, I’m safe and sound in Bangkok, but not before arriving with a throbbing migraine from the 8-hour red-eye flight from Perth that started at 2 AM. Fortunately, I had one last migraine pill in my carry-on luggage and went straight to a men’s room on arrival to pop it down my gullet. Unfortunately, it decided to pop down the sink drain instead. $7.50 down the drain (literally). Fortunately, I had more migraine medication in my checked baggage, but that took a little longer to get to (after the additional headaches of immigration, baggage claim, and customs).

Once I got to my guesthouse, they acted like they had no record of my reservation—even though I made it six weeks ago. I followed all their website instructions to the “T”: had it confirmed, and then re-confirmed by e-mail both Saturday and Sunday and re-confirmed again by phone on Monday (two days before my arrival). Oh well, they came up with a room for me anyway. I guess I shouldn’t complain for $10 a night.

I spent a few hours napping this afternoon, trying to catch up on my lost sleep from the flight. Then I spent several hours dizzily wandering the streets and shopping centres of downtown Bangkok. Tonight I had a nice, yummy double meal of Pad Thai (cooked before my very eyes) and barbecued chicken and coconut-flavoured rice for a whopping US$2.41!

I’m currently blogging this from the top floor of a giant shopping mall called Siam Square. They have huge movie theatres here that offer deluxe viewing packages (recliner seats, free eats, etc). King Kong piqued my interest, but it doesn’t look like it opens for another week. I’ve heard you’re required to stand and pledge allegiance to the King of Thailand (aka the King of Siam) before all movies here. That, in itself, could be interesting.

Portrait of the King of Thailand
Portrait of the King of Thailand

At this point, however, I’m just looking forward to a good night’s sleep….

Australia

Out of the refrigerator and into the freezer…

Perth, Australia
Perth, Australia

After a year of hunkering down and keeping my nose to the grindstone, it’s time for another break. I have to say I’ve been feeling a bit gypped over the past few weeks. The temperatures here in Perth still seem to be hovering around our winter norms, even though it is supposed to be summer. And now I’m heading for the frozen tundra of North America. Oh well… at least I’ll have three days to sizzle in the tropics en route. Bangkok always seems to be in the nineties.

Australia, Egypt, Fiji, Hawaii, Hong Kong, India, New Zealand, Singapore, Thailand, United States, Western Australia

27 Flights Later…

Perth, Australia
Perth, Australia

After 27 takeoffs and landings, I have finally found my way back to where I started my journey on August 1st: Perth, Australia. The air and streets seem super clean, the humidity is very low, the sun is very bright, and the people drive annoyingly slow and stay in nice, neat traffic lanes. I’m having to get used to life with Western toilets and toilet paper again. And I’m still not used to drinking tap water without having to purify it first. On the other hand, it sure seems quiet around here — without the hustle and bustle of Cairo, Delhi, Hong Kong, Bangkok, and Singapore. It will take some getting used to!

Singapore

A stop I didn’t anticipate

Well, I really had no plans to visit a ninth country on this adventure, but I decided on a whim to pop into Singapore for some last-minute shopping on my way back to Perth. I had a four-hour layover in the city-state and felt I knew the town well enough from my many business trips here to make a mad dash on the subway into Sim Lim Square to buy a DVD burner.

Mix of Old and New on Singapore Street, Singapore
Mix of Old and New on Singapore Street, Singapore

Fortunately for me, they were still celebrating the Chinese New Year here, so I was bestowed with nice candies the second I stepped through customs. There were also celebrations going on around town.

Bangkok, Krabi Province, Thailand

Learned a great recipe for jello…

Ah yes, the cooking class was great. I now have the secret recipes for creating my favourite Thai dishes. A group of five of us managed to cook up some of the best Thai food I’ve had since coming to Thailand — all from scratch using fresh herbs from a nearby garden. Of course, we were under guided instruction the whole time, so it’s only a matter of time before I attempt to recreate the dishes on my own and realise I must have missed a few crucial steps…

Food stalls on streets of Bangkok, Thailand
Food stalls on streets of Bangkok, Thailand

I’m now back in Bangkok for my last few days of snooping around before heading back to Singapore and Perth on Wednesday. I spent most of my morning snooping around Chinatown’s extensive markets. They had market stalls that seemed to run for miles up and down little alleyways with everything imaginable for sale. Lots of fun to photograph.

Chinatown in Bangkok, Thailand
Chinatown in Bangkok, Thailand
Chinatown Food Markets in Bangkok, Thailand
Chinatown Food Markets in Bangkok, Thailand
Chinatown Food Markets in Bangkok, Thailand
Chinatown Food Markets in Bangkok, Thailand
Food stall on streets of Bangkok, Thailand
Food stall on streets of Bangkok, Thailand
Chinatown Food Markets in Bangkok, Thailand
Chinatown Food Markets in Bangkok, Thailand
Ducks in Chinatown Food Market, Bangkok, Thailand
Ducks in Chinatown Food Market, Bangkok, Thailand
Chinatown street in Bangkok, Thailand
Chinatown street in Bangkok, Thailand
Chinatown Food Markets in Bangkok, Thailand
Chinatown Food Markets in Bangkok, Thailand

I spent a few hours this afternoon enjoying my final Thai massage. Actually, I don’t know if “enjoy” is the right word for them, since they can be quite brutal. I’ve learned that the best ones are the brutal ones because they really work your muscles and make you feel as rubbery and relaxed as Jell-O afterwards. I enjoy the feeling of having had a massage, but I’m not sure how much I actually enjoy them while I’m having them.

Chinese Lanterns over Chinatown street in Bangkok, Thailand
Chinese Lanterns over Chinatown street in Bangkok, Thailand
Cairo, Egypt, Hawaii, Kauai: The Garden Island, Krabi Province, Thailand

Dogs are to Asia what Cats are to the Middle East what…

Dogs are to Asia what Cats are to the Middle East, what chickens are to the Hawaiian island of Kauai: Stray. Feral. Wild. Whatever you want to call them.

One of many stray dogs in Thailand
One of many stray dogs in Thailand

Before I started my travels, my travel doctor pondered whether I might need a rabies shot on top of all the other immunisations I had to get. Now I know why. There seems to be no shortage of stray dogs wandering the streets of Thailand. Many of them look quite sick. Many just lie around in the street and on sidewalks, where pedestrians give them a wide berth. The only ones that really seemed threatening were recent mothers nursing pups. You just had to make sure you never got between them and their young.

One of many stray dogs in Thailand
One of many stray dogs in Thailand

Egypt, on the other hand, seemed to be full of stray cats. They were interesting to watch, as they seemed to be always scheming to score some food. They would travel in gangs, using each other as lookouts while they found ways to sneak into buildings through broken windows and other openings.

The Hawaiian island of Kauai, as I mentioned earlier, was full of jungle fowl known as “Moa” and introduced by the Polynesians. Basically, they were chickens and roosters who loved to cock-a-doodle-do at all hours of the night and day (which was particularly fun while you were camping). The strangest scene I recall with these creatures was a family of chicks being herded by their mother through a crowded Walmart parking lot.

I guess it’s a good idea that all these strays are segregated in different parts of the world, or they’d never get along.