Bangkok, Thailand

Bleary Eyed in Bangkok…

My 18 hour air odyssey has come to a close. The longest flight of my life! We flew non-stop north from L.A. passing just west of Gilroy (a little more east of Watsonville), up over Anchorage Alaska, in deep over Russia, down diagonally across China (which is one big country), and finally in over Vietnam and into Bangkok at sunrise. It was night time outside the whole way as we followed the dark side of the earth. It was the longest night of my life, I think.

Thai Airways wasn’t a bad way to go… They stuffed us full with three meals that seemed too big to fit on our trays. We had the usual personal movies and TV on demand, and they gave us comfortable seats with lots of leg room (for economy, anyway). I managed to get about five hours of sleep and took another nap on arrival at my guesthouse.

I’m now scrambling to come up with local travel plans for my next few weeks here in Thailand. While getting a cheap haircut, I just bumped into a guy who serves lunches over the counter at a shop I visit 3000+ miles away in Perth. Small world…

California, United States

A culturally obligatory pitstop

Aside from family activities, the biggest highlight of my visit to the U.S. on this trip was the drive up and down through Big Sur in California. I’ve done the drive before, but not in about 16 years. I still remembered the lesson I learned from my previous drive: always fill up the tank before you start either end. You can always buy fuel along the way, but any time you pull into a service station with padlocks on the pumps and signs that say “No Self Service”, you know you’re in for sticker shock. I had the same nasty experience driving out to Uluru in Central Australia from the Stuart Highway. Those fuel prices were the highest I came across driving around Australia in 2004.

Anyway, January seemed a nice time to enjoy the twists, turns, and spectacular misty views of Big Sur without the usual horde of tourists. Among the more interesting discoveries was a huge California condor perched on a railing at a scenic turnout overlooking one of the peaks of the mountainous drive. In case you’re curious, they’re actually butt ugly. And I also stumbled across a huge colony of elephant seals and their newborns on a beach just north of San Simone. They seemed quite ensconced there, with a newly built boardwalk overlooking them. Obviously I wasn’t the first to find them. It seemed designed to protect them from human spectators.

Well, it came time to temporarily tuck that wilderness stuff away and make the culturally obligatory visit up to Heart Castle. I had never been there before (usually speeding up while I passed), but I found the place equally compelling and repulsive. I have to admit that I did feel a bit biased against Randolph Hearst after seeing Citizen Cane recently. On the one hand, it was interesting to see the place the movie was supposedly based on. And it was interesting to see some of the antiquities and artworks Hearst collected, along with the art deco styling of the era. On the other hand, the whole concept of frivolously blowing this kind of money on something for just himself and his friends, and then having it end up as a $20 amusement park for the general public was a bit nauseating.

Probably the most priceless aspect of the tour came from just overhearing the lame banter between the other tourists. Comments like “How would you like to wake up and view that every day!” and repeated “if you had all the money in the world…”. The staff weren’t any better. Most acted like it was a Disneyland tour (another culturally obligatory visit I’ve been putting off). They were trying to sell portaits of visitors at the entrance. “But what good’s a photo without Mickey?”, I should have asked. And a long line of tour guides all waved goodbye to us in unison at the top of the hill when our bus pulled out. Maybe they were mechanical, as I suspected.

The whole experience left me longing to visit the Getty Museum on Los Angeles when I got there. I figured it would be a bit of a contrast to see how two millionaires spent their wads. One for good (or at least it came good in the end for Getty, with free admission for the public to see their vast collection of artworks), and the other for evil, in the case of the purely capitalist Hearst Castle.

Bangkok, Thailand

Santa’s comin’ to town on the back of an elephant…

Spent most of the day walking my dogs off while Christmas shopping. Not much mention of Christmas ’round these Buddhist parts… Not like Singapore, which always gets extra high-tech and glitzy this time of year. Or Kuala Lumpur — even though it’s a Muslim country. New Years gets a mention here in Bangkok, but that is probably aimed more at the Chinese population. You just get the odd sounding Christmas tune in department stores. That’s about it, here in ninety degree heat. Actually, the weather’s be quite ideal (and perhaps a bit cooler). Nice, dry, warm, and sunny. What Perth should be like right now.

Before I hit the markets and shops, I spent a few hours checking out old Jim Thompson’s place. Jimbo’s a Yank who’s credited with opening up Thailand’s silk trade. He studied architecture at Princeton before being sent to Thailand during WWII (the big one) to do espionage work. Jimbo decided to return to Bangkok after the war ’cause he fell in love with the place. He decided to make a living by promoting Thai silk around the world. Considered quite the hero for it.

Jim Thompson is actually the second American I’ve come across in the past 18 months responsible for opening up a foreign country’s trade. The first being Tom Price in Western Australia, who is credited with opening up Australia’s mining industry for export. Anyway, Jimbo collected traditional Thai buildings and resurrected them on his old property, which is now a nice museum, just around the block from my guesthouse. Jimbo (as I’ve obviously come to call him) mysteriously disappeared while on vacation in Malaysia in the 1960’s. Adds to his legend status, I guess.

One of the many interesting things about Jim Thompson’s place was the fact that the main house was positioned with its front door pointed towards a little skinny river canal that ran the length of inner Bangkok. The premises may have been tucked away back up some alley, but in the day it was built, the canal system was the preferred mode of transportation in this city. Bangkok was known as the “Venice of the East”. To this day, regular long boats frequently ferry passengers back and forth on these canals. And unlike the few remaining cable cars of San Francisco, the people who ride these boats aren’t predominantly tourists.

Had another nice cheap Thai meal tonight. Maybe $2 this time. Funny thing I’ve learned about Thais. When they say spicy, they mean burn-your-mouth-off and sweat-a-gallon spicy. But when they say “not spicy”, I’m still finding the food to be about as hot as anything labeled “spicy” in Western supermarkets. Guess their taste buds are too burned off to recognize mild spices anymore. ‘Course, the cure for an overly hot Thai meal is a nice scoop of coconut ice cream.

Saw an ad in the paper today for my flight to Los Angeles tomorrow. It’s a brand-new spanking plane with a personal entertainment system on each seat. Hopefully that will help break up the monotony of the 15 hour non-stop flight. Maybe I’ve got that wrong though — it could be quite fast, since it’s scheduled to arrive in Los Angeles 20 minutes before it leaves Bangkok.

Bangkok, Thailand

My Bangkok Hangover…

Well I’m safe and sound in Bangkok, but not before arriving with a throbbing migraine as a result of the 8 hour red-eye flight to get here from Perth that started at 2AM. Fortunately, I had one last migraine pill in my carry on luggage and went straight to a men’s room on arrival to pop it down my gullet. Unfortunately it decided to pop down the sink drain instead. $7.50 down the drain (literally). Fortunately I had more migraine medication in my checked baggage, but that took a little longer to get to (after the additional headaches of immigration, baggage claim, and customs).

Once I got to my guesthouse, they acted like they had no record of my reservation — even though I made it six weeks ago. I followed all their Web site instructions to the “T”: had it confirmed, and then re-confirmed by e-mail both Saturday and Sunday and re-confirmed again by phone on Monday (two days before my arrival). Oh well, they came up with a room for me anyway. I guess I shouldn’t complain for $10 a night.

I spent a few hours napping this afternoon, trying to catch up on my lost sleep from the flight. Then I spent several hours dizzily wandering the streets and shopping centers of downtown Bangkok. Tonight I had a nice yummy double meal of Phad Thai (cooked before my very eyes) and barbecued chicken and coconut flavored rice for a whopping US$2.41!

I’m currently blogging this from the top floor of a giant shopping mall called Siam Square. They have huge movie theaters here that offer deluxe viewing packages (recliner seats, free eats, etc). King Kong perked my interest, but it doesn’t look like it opens for another week. I’ve heard you’re required to stand and pledge allegiance to the King of Thailand (aka the King of Siam) before all movies here. That, in itself, could be interesting.

At this point, however, I’m just looking forward to a good night’s sleep….

Australia

Out of the refrigerator and into the freezer…

After a year of hunkering down and keeping my nose to the grindstone, it’s time for another break. I have to say I’ve been feeling a bit gypped over the past few weeks. The temperatures here in Perth still seem to be hovering around our winter norms, even though it is supposed to be summer. And now I’m heading for the frozen tundra of North America. Oh well… at least I’ll have three days to sizzle in the tropics enroute. Bangkok always seems to be in the nineties.

Australia, Western Australia

27 Flights Later…

After 27 takeoffs and landings, I have finally found my way back to where I started my journey on August 1st: Perth, Australia. The air and streets seem super clean, the humidity is very low, the sun is very bright, and the people drive annoyingly slow and stay in nice neat traffic lanes. I’m having to get used to life with western toilets and toilet paper again. And I’m still not used to drinking tap water without having to purify it first. On the other hand, it sure seems quiet around here — without the hustle and bustle of Cairo, Delhi, Hong Kong, Bangkok, and Singapore. It will take some getting used to!

Singapore

A stop I didn’t anticipate

Well, I really had no plans to visit a ninth country on this adventure, but I decided on a whim to pop into Singapore for a bit of last minute shopping on my way back to Perth. I had a four hour layover in the city-state and felt I knew the town well enough from my many business trips here to make a mad dash on the subway in to Sim Lim Square to buy a DVD burner.

Fortunately for me they were still celebrating the Chinese New Year here, so I was bestowed with nice candies the second I stepped through customs. There were also celebrations going on around town.

Bangkok, Krabi Province, Thailand

Learned a great recipe for jello…

Ah yes, the cooking class was great. I now have the secret recipes for creating my favorite Thai dishes. A group of five of us managed to cook up some of the best Thai food I’ve had since coming to Thailand — all from scratch using fresh herbs from a nearby garden. Of course, we were under guided instruction the whole time, so it’s only a matter of time before I attempt to recreate the dishes on my own and find out that I must have missed a few crucial instructions…

I’m now back in Bangkok for my last few days of snooping around before heading back to Singapore and Perth on Wednesday. I spent most of my morning snooping around Chinatown’s extensive markets. They had market stalls that seemed to run for miles up and down little alleyways with everything imaginable for sale. Lots of fun to photograph.

I spent a few hours this afternoon enjoying my final Thai massage. Actually, I don’t know if “enjoy” is the word for them since they can actually be quite brutal. I’ve learned that the best ones are the brutal ones because they really work your muscles and make you feel as rubbery and relaxed as jello afterwards. I enjoy the feeling of having had a massage, but I’m not sure how much I actually enjoy them while I’m having them.

Cairo, Egypt, Hawaii, Kauai: The Garden Island, Krabi Province, Thailand

Dogs are to Asia what Cats are to the Middle East what…

Dogs are to Asia what Cats are to the Middle East what chickens are to the Hawaiian island of Kauai: Stray. Feral. Wild. Whatever you want to call them.

Before I started my travels, my travel doctor pondered whether I might need a rabies shot on top of all the other immunizations I had to get. Now I know why. There seem to be no shortage of stray dogs wondering the streets of Thailand. Many of them look quite sick. Many just lie around in the street and on sidewalks, where pedestrians give them a wide berth. The only ones that really seemed threatening were recent mothers nursing pups. You just had to make sure you never got between them and their young.

Egypt, on the other hand, seemed to be full of stray cats. They were interesting to watch as they looked like they were always scheming to score some food. They would travel around in gangs and use each other as lookouts while they found ways to sneak into buildings through broken windows and other holes.

The Hawaiian island of Kauai, as I mentioned earlier, was full of jungle fowl known as “Moa” and introduced by the Polynesians. Basically, they were chickens and roosters who loved to cock-a-doodle-do at all hours of the night and day (which was particularly fun while you were camping). The strangest scene I recall with these creatures was a family of chicks being herded by its mother through a crowded Walmart parking lot.

I guess it’s a good idea all these strays are segregated in different parts of the world or they’d never get along.

Krabi Province, Thailand

Another lazy day around the islands off Thailand

My grueling kayak trip turned out to be about as laid back as any of the other adventures I’ve signed up for this past week. We basically kayaked around a fairly small island and then just chilled out on a few island beaches for the rest of the day. Our tour guides even insisted on doing most of the paddling.

The sad thing about the tour was the lack of tourists. This region is so hard up for tourists right now (in what should be their peak tourist season) that they insisted on running this trip with only two customers. The two of us had a big 45 passenger boat (to get us to our kayaking area) and seven crew members at our disposal. We only paid about US$33 for the all day tour (including lunch). It was really quite ridiculous.

The trip around the island in the kayaks was quite interesting. The island consisted of huge limestone cliffs that fell straight down to ocean waters or skinny little beaches. There were a number of caves around the island that were being harvested for swallow bird nests. The nests are a delicacy in China where they are the main ingredient in “bird nest soup” and worth about US$750 a kilo. Needless to say, the caves were off limits to us and the harvesters working in them required special permits from the Thai government.

In the middle of the island lay a fabulous secret lagoon that had a small entrance passage between two cliff faces. Actually, I can’t say it was secret because there was an endless entourage of motorized tour boats zipping in and out of it. At least those of us in kayaks could venture deep into the mangrove section of it to explore the shallow waters.

Our tour guides seemed to have the usual happy-go-lucky attitude you find in Thais. They were very friendly and liked to clown around. They insisted on doubling up on our kayaks so they could do most of the work and run a fishing line off the back of our boats for squid. They mentioned that Thailand was having trouble selling its seafood lately because so many people around the world falsely believed the fish Thais were catching had fed off the corpses of the dead from the tsunami.

On the way back into port, we passed one of the gleaming palaces of the king of Thailand, up on a hill overlooking the sea. The royal family here also happens to have another retreat on top of the mountain I cycled down outside of Chiang Mai. Thais hold their king in very high regard. In fact, the King and I (and the movie Anna and the King) have been banned here for years because they find it deeply offensive. I did come across a reference to Anna in the National Museum in Bangkok, so she did exist as an English teacher. She just never romanced the king…

I just have a few days left before I fly back up to Bangkok for a few days, so I thought I would enroll in one of the many cooking classes they offer in Thailand. I know several people who done them and they said they were great. We’ll see how it goes.