Author: Joel

Kenya, Rift Valley

Flamingo City

Joel

After a final early morning game cruise on Lake Baringo, we got ourselves back to the mainland for the long drive back to Nairobi. Along the way we took our time and swung through the Lake Bogoria Nature Reserve to see if there were any flamingos still hanging around. The lake attracts over a million flamingos at certain times of the year. We were happy enough to have found several hundred still there. The lake is also famous for its boiling hot springs (which the locals like to boil eggs in).  The nature reserve is also one of the only places you will find kudus in Kenya. We saw a group of kudus in the southern part of the reserve as well as some dik-diks, which are dwarf antelopes that always live in pairs.

All of the Rift Valley lakes had undergone severe flooding in recent years. Lake Baringo saw its water levels rise a whopping 12 meters. There were different theories as to why, but extra water in the atmosphere and associated storms around the equator due to polar icecaps melting was a common culprit.

The main road through the Lake Bogoria Nature Reserve had been submerged due to these rising lake levels, so we were forced to take a newly carved out road that was very rough.  We were advised to come back out the way we came in, but decided to drive straight through – which was worth doing because of the remote beauty.  It took us a while to get back on the main road, but we eventually got back on paved roads – only to find the usual horrendous traffic all the way back to Nairobi.

Kenya, Rift Valley

Lake Baringo

Joel

After being greeted with fresh coffee outside of my tent, I went up to the restaurant for a nice breakfast before heading out on a boat for a trip around the lake to see some local wildlife – mainly comprised of bird watching. We started by circumnavigating the island to spot local birds, hippos, and some bubbling hot springs at the opposite end of the island. While the camp section of the island was full of cool leafy trees, the rest of the island had largely been stripped of all trees for firewood – a major problem throughout Kenya.

Then the boat took us across to a locally run conservatory of animals.  We saw lots of birds, including ostriches with eggs and big owls.  We also saw a number of giraffes, monkeys, and rock hyrax, a rock dwelling elephant-related mammal (with small tusks).  We fed a fish eagle a dead fish by whistling for it and then watching it swoop down to pull the fish out of the water.

Lake Baringo Game Cruise

We all took a shot at paddling one of the tiny homemade fishing rafts, made entirely of locally sourced balsa wood. The rafts are very light and fragile and held together by nylon string.  They are very tippy and will sink and fall apart easily if too much weight is added – which included most of us.

After another hot day in the tropics, we were treated once again to a late afternoon storm blow in an cool the climate down beautifully for the evening.

Kenya, Rift Valley

Birdland

Joel

Out of the Rift Valley one day, back in the next. Unfortunately, the drive in and out can be very exasperating. It happens to be part of the main highway between Kenya’s port city of Mombasa and the country of Uganda. Although a modern rail line is supposedly under construction, most freight must take this route and it makes for some chaotic driving. Between the endless freight trucks, unmarked speed bumps, regular police checks, and constant potholes, the drive can be very stressful – with roads deteriorating to barely passable by the end.

Nevertheless, we headed off for a 3 day weekend on Lake Baringo’s Island Camp resort. The lakes in the Rift Valley are all part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for, among other things, its diverse range of 460 bird species. The lake is just north of the equator (which required the obligatory photo op) and full of crocodiles, hippopotamuses, and much more. 

The camp is actually one of the oldest western tourist camps in Kenya, built in 1972. It had a very tranquil setting with individual rooms opening up to views of the huge lake.  Malaria is rife around here, so mosquito nets surrounded all the beds.  From the island you can see the walls of the Rift Valley on either side of the lake.

Had nice swim in their island-top pool and a nice dinner.  We tried to find some hippos in the evening but we’re told they didn’t come out of the water until 1am and went back in at 4am.

Kenya, Rift Valley

Mount Longonot

Joel

After slothing around a few too many tour bus tourist destinations, I decided to put a bit more exertion into my activities and do a somewhat strenuous hike in the Rift Valley. It became one of the highlights of my trip to Kenya: a hike up to the top of Mount Longonot along with a full circumference of the rim.

Mount Longonot Hike

After a fairly steep and exhausting climb, I made it up to the rim and admired the volcano floor (last active in 1860) deep below. I took my friend’s advice and continued to navigate to nice little recommended lunch spot on a small bench under a small Acacia tree. While munching away on a few of my mini sandwiches, I couldn’t help but notice some thunderstorms brewing on the far eastern side of the Rift Valley. Nothing to worry about, I thought, as I proceeded on my circumnavigational journey.

About 1km along the circular path, I came across what appeared to be distinctly large cat tracks with large nearby cat scat. Oh no, I thought, could there be lions around here? I thought it would be best to return to where I passed some other hikers who had brought a guide with them to make sure. “There are leopards and cheetahs on the crater floor,” their guide told me, “but no lions to worry about. The leopards and cheetahs won’t bother you.”

Off I went with only slightly more confidence. I aimed to hike in a counter-clockwise direction to get the most strenuous climbs around the wavering rim out of the way first. I made my way up a few more steep climbs and rewarded myself with some amazing views from the highest point over the Rift Valley floor. Unfortunately, it looked like those thunderstorms were getting bigger and bigger and heading more in my direction.

I thought I should better get this hike over with before the storms got to me, but about half way around the rim I found myself with no way out and no where to take cover. The storm swelled to encompass the entire Longonot Volcano. To make a long story short, I got thoroughly drenched, but managed to avoid being struck by lightening. The temperature really dropped during the storm and I was awfully cold, but it gave me another adventurous story to tell.

Kenya, Nairobi

Culture Time

Joel

I decided it was time for a bit of culture. Off to the Nairobi National Museum I went – with a special tacked on visit to the neighboring Snake Museum.

The Nairobi National Museum was a bit outdated, but home to some interesting exhibitions including birds, mammals, humans, history, and art work. The snake museum, on the other hand, was very run down and depressing – but I did see a snake swallow a live frog in big pit full of snakes. I also was amused to find a cobra repeatedly flinch and try to strike me behind glass. Must have not been there very long.

In the evening we headed out for a regular Wednesday night tradition: and run through Nairobi’s Karura Forest. Truth be told, I personally opted for a walk. Karura Forest is a well known expat hangout found right in the heart of Nairobi that makes you feel as though you are far away from the city. It is full of thick woodland, a waterfall in the middle, and lots of hiking, running, and mountain bike trails. It costs money to get in, but it is one sizable oasis Nairobi residents can use to make themselves feel as though they are very far from the city.

Karura Forest Walk

Kenya, Nairobi

Nairobi National Park

Joel

Visited the Giraffe Orphanage, where you could greet giraffes at their eye level (thanks to a platform) and hand feed them pellets. I can report that they have very long slimy tongues. Warthogs would follow giraffes because of their reliance on other wildlife. It was odd to see them somehow avoid getting stepped on by their giant neighbors and kneel (as they do) when eating.

Afterwards, I had a nice lunch at the Matbronze Wildlife Art Gallery and Foundry (and café) nearby to eat a late breakfast and admire their bronze exhibition.

My driver gave me the full game drive in Nairobi National Park in the afternoon. After hunting for a while without much success, we eventually found where all the animals were hiding. Tall grass? No, there are lions in there – so we found the full range where there was shorter grass near the southeastern part of the park – including hippos, ostriches, impalas, zebras, giraffes, jackals, monkeys, and a fair few black rhinos.

There was one walk we had to do to get to a remote hippo pool yesterday (no hippos there, unfortunately). In order for us to do the walk we had to be personally escorted by a park police officer with a machine gun – just in case any lions or leopards lunged out at us (I guess). At one point I pointed out a monkey near the river and I thought I heard him get startled enough to put his hand on the trigger.

It is amazing to think in this day and age people in this part of the world are still living side by side with such predators! This park was fenced, but there are still quite a few animals that manage to get out. We saw some hyenas nearby after we drove out of the park.

Kenya, Nairobi

Out of Africa

Joel

After returning to Nairobi, I spent a few days doing the usually touristy stuff. Went to the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust elephant orphanage to see lots of baby orphaned elephants get their morning milk out of bottles. The orphanage is part of the Nairobi National Park. The younger, the cuter the elephants.

After the elephant orphanage, I west to have lunch at the posh Karen Blixen Coffee House before heading on to see the Karen Blixen Museum. Karen Blixen is the woman the movie Out of Africa was about. The museum contains many old relics from when she lived there between 1917 and 1931. The exterior of the home was used in the film.

Today the surrounding neighborhood is named Karen in her honor. Full of very extravagantly wealthy homes as well.

If became time for some cash. After my experiences in South Africa, I was a bit wary about using ATMs in Nairobi. Things are a bit different in Kenya, however. Most ATMs are well guarded or housed in shopping malls. Due to the Westgate Shopping Mall attack, all vehicles are now stopped at the perimeter of shopping mall parking lots and are searched before being allowed to enter. Once shoppers get to the entrances, they must be personally searched by guards for any weapons before they can enter. With all that security around, I don’t think anyone is too keen on trying to scam people out of their ATM cards.

Kenya, Rift Valley

Weekend in The Rift Valley

Joel

My second day in Kenya and it was time to head for the hills. Well, the valley, anyway. The Rift Valley, which is just west of Nairobi and full of recreational opportunities. Our first stop was to visit Solio Ranch Game Reserve – about half way between Mount Kenya and Aberdare National Park. A bit pricey for tourists, but full of wonderful African wildlife.

Among Solio’s prized possessions were many white rhinos. Their breeding program is the largest and most successful in all of Africa. They supply white rhinoceroses to other parks throughout the region. All wildlife is considered to be owned by the government of Kenya in Kenya, so no private ownership or hunting is permitted.

Besides about 50 rhinos, we saw lots of other native wildlife, including roschild giraffes, a pride of lions, warthogs, countless impalas, endless monkeys, exotic birds, stacks of zebras, and many an antlered animal, etc

The drive up to Solio was interesting. Countless hidden speed bumps and continual heavy traffic made the drive treacherous. Every 10kms or so a police checkpoint would present itself. Pure bribery in action, I was told. They never bothered us, but many other motorists were pulled over and given “fines” for alleged traffic violations. Most people just paid them on the spot because they didn’t want any trouble, but expats were more likely to know their rights and demand due process – usually resulting in a wave through after a thirty-minute delay.

The car was equipped with numerous monitoring devices that scored drivers on their driving ability.  Alarms would go off if drivers drove too fast or braked or accelerated too quickly.  Each driver has their own unique key so they could be individually identified.

Stayed in a homey German run guest house nearby at foot of Mount Kenya, Africa’s second highest mountain.  Between this place and the The Talisman restaurant I visited on my first night in the Nairobi suburb of Karen, I couldn’t help but think of the scene from Apocalypse Now Redux – when the boat crew had dinner at and old French colonial plantation. It all felt a bit out of touch with its surroundings.

Kenya, Nairobi

Nairobi Intro

Joel

After roughly 17 hours of flying, I was picked up at the Nairobi airport by a friend and her driver. After dodging a group of cattle on the road (am I in India?), we started to head into Nairobi. Traffic was said to be lighter than usual due to the Christmas holiday period, but it sure looked pretty crazy to me.

Eventually after a few encounters with gridlock in the center of town, we made it to the gates of a very secure compound. The compound was protected by double gates, razor wire and electric fences, multiple patrolling guards, and guard dogs patrolling the perimeter at night. Once inside, it was easy to forget you were in the heart of Nairobi. The condominiums surrounded beautiful lush gardens with a swimming pool and other posh amenities.

Nairobi, also known as Nairobbery by some, has had some bad episodes of crime and terrorism in recent years, so many precautions have been put in place. My hosts were allocated a driver and secure car through their employer, whose location was continually tracked by GPS and equipped with tinted windows and a panic button. If out after 10pm, their car was automatically greeted by a well marked escort security vehicle that tailgated them home to deter car-jackers and kidnappers and to make sure they got into their home safety.

Certain neighborhoods around Nairobi, like Eastleigh, were complete no-go zones due to their high rates of crime and terrorist activities. Some of the largest slums in Africa can be found in Nairobi and they are quite notorious. The streets were filled with cameras posted high above that photographed every car’s movements around town day and night (creating a distracting strobe effect when they flashed).

Cape Town, South Africa

Robben Island

Joel

Today, depressingly, is my very last full day of my seven month journey! I booked a ferry ticket to head out and see Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela and others were held as political prisoners for many years. The island name comes from the Dutch word for seal, so there were many seals as well as penguins about.

Robben Island lies just off the coast and can be reached on a 30 minute ferry ride. It has served as a defence post, leper colony, and prison for different eras in its history and now also serves as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Once we arrived on the island we were given an hour bus tour around the island before visiting the prison. On the tour we were shown a leper grave yard, military installations from WWII, and the living quarters of the staff who lived out there.

After that we were dropped off for a tour of the prison grounds. Interestingly, our tour guide through the prison had been incarcerated there himself for five years due to his political affiliations. The prison itself is not all that big and it was divided into sections for different kinds of prisoners, so political prisoners were kept separate from violent criminals. Also, prisoners were treated more harshly depending on the color of their skin and rations were more generous for lighter skinned inmates.

The political prisoners who acted as leaders of their political organisations were all kept together in the same cell block. Conditioned began to improve over the decades due to international pressure. We were told how prisoners would share information with other isolated groups by putting messages into tennis balls and then ‘accidentally’ hitting them over the walls to neighbouring cell blocks while using the tennis courts.

One of Nelson Mandela’s guards became a close personal friend of his and even served in his administration when he became president. He continued to live out on the island and run a coffee shop, but he was away on vacation when we were there.

Nelson Mandela’s cell was shown with the few items of furnishing prisoners were allowed to have: a thin mattress, a metal bowl, a metal cup, a small table, and a trash can. For nine hours every day all prisoners who were convicted to hard labor would have to mine a limestone quarry on the island. It was just mined for satisfying the hard labor requirement and the lime was often just dumped in the ocean overnight.