Ayuthaya Province, Thailand

Befriending Buddhist

I was up early in the morning touring the ruins of Ayutthaya when I spotted a young Buddhist boy in his shaved head and bright orange robe wandering the grounds. I tried sneaking a few photographs of him when he noticed me and ran up to me with a big smile on his face. He asked whether he could practice his English on me. His English actually seemed pretty good, but I sat down with him so he could work out a few kinks in his communication skills. He had an English / Thai translation book handy.

I was quite surprised to learn that he was only seven years old. He had been a Buddhist for three years and was about to embark on a trip to Germany to study at an English language monastery for five years — all by himself (without family)! He was actually on his way to Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia) to meet his girlfriend before flying off to Europe. She was also 7. He showed me a picture of her. She was Chinese and met him on a family vacation to his home town in Thailand. He had written her a love letter and asked me to proof read it for him. I think he wanted help on pronouncing it because he had only known how to look up the written translation in his books.

He seemed quite keen on women for his age, asking me what I thought of Thai women and expressing his preference for lighter skinned Chinese. I asked him whether he liked German women (seeing as he was headed in that direction anyway) and he told me they were “too long”.

Talking with him confirmed what I had heard last year when I was here: that many Buddhist monks are only practicing as a way of social support. In his case, he seemed to be practicing to get support and a free education. He even told me he was planning to quit when he turned 19 (after high school). Buddhism seems to serve as the social safety net in these parts.

I spent a few hours talking with him. I felt kind of cool walking around with this guy most Thais seemed to have such high reverence for, bowing before him and expressing their personal thoughts to him in Thai. At one point I think a security guard took advantage of him by telling him he wasn’t getting a lunch break and needed food. The 7 year old monk promptly forked over all the food he had in his satchel. I felt kind of bad for him and took him out to lunch afterwards, even after he showed me his ATM card. Minutes later a partially blind Thai woman would kneel before him asking for a blessing or prayer. In exchange, she left him a coke. He seemed kind of embarrassed about it in front of me, but I found in interesting to see how the exchange of food would probably work out between him and others in the end after all.

Needless to say, he was very mature for his age. I couldn’t believe it when he told me he was only seven. I think he was lonely traveling on his own and thought we were going to spend the whole day together, but I had to shake him loose after lunch. Interesting experience, anyway…

Ayuthaya Province, Bangkok, Thailand

Clash of Classes

I had quite the clash of classes between yesterday and today. After spending a long day hammering around the hot pavement of Bangkok, I decided to treat myself to that King Kong movie I noted on my previous visit.

Before I go any further, let me just say Kong is King. ‘Nuff said.

Anyway, I bought that deluxe “Gold Pass” ticket I told you about earlier. For about the price of a regular movie ticket in Australia, I got to sit in a special theater full of huge reclining sofa chairs. No need to exert any energy to recline them, mind you, these babies had electronic push button controls to get them in whatever exact contortions you desired. Each seat came with its own pillow and blanket set so you could snuggle up extra comfy in that chilly air-conditioned darkness. Next to your seat was a personal hard-wood table for holding your popcorn, snacks, coke, or bar drink. There were waiters prowling the theater to beckon to your every need.

Before the film started, we were entitled to hang out in this luxurious lounge with free open bar and snacks. The movie had Thai subtitles, and there was that glitzy tribute to the King of Siam before the show started (for which everyone was expected to stand). It seemed that the audience was predominately made up of Western tourists. I couldn’t help but think it was all a bit frivolous, really.

And then came today, when I rose early and made a mad dash for the Bangkok train station so I could get out to the “must see” historic Wat (Buddhist temple) filled Ayutthaya Historical Park for a three day stay in a finely restored teak guesthouse overlooking a peaceful frog filled lily-pad-laden pond.

The only seats available on this 1.5 hour train trip were third class. This meant hard bench-type seating with no air conditioning or ventilation other than through open windows. The view wasn’t bad (seeing as you had nothing between you and outside to look through), but you just had to be careful not to stick you arm out there. Occasionally a beam or bridge girder would fly past without any warning.

Even though I had a reserved seat, it seemed at least half the people on the train were forced to stand for their entire journey. There were mostly Thais on board, but there were quite a few Western backpackers as well. My guess is they filled up the seats and just continued selling standing-room-only tickets. Fortunately the trip was an early one and not too hot. I hate to think what a later afternoon train ride must have been like.

It seems much hotter here in Ayutthaya than it was in Bangkok. It must be due to the lack of smog Bangkok has filtering out the sun’s rays. I only managed a short hike around some of the ruins today before I was forced to retreat to my guesthouse sweating profusely. There isn’t any air-conditioning in my room, but the house was designed to be cool with high walls that don’t quite reach the ceilings, polished hardwood floors elevated up above ground on stilts, and big breezy windows — all with air circulation in mind. I do have a ceiling fan as well. I plan to get up early tomorrow (before it gets too hot) so I can take a cycle ride around town and visit more ruins.

I plan to stay here for three nights before moving on to one of the allegedly best national parks worldwide. Its chock full of wildlife, including elephants and tigers! The guesthouse I’m aiming for sounds like it has some interesting tours (including nocturnal).