Australia, Australian Capital Territory

The Capitol in The Capital

So cruising down the road, I’ve come up over a hill to suddenly recognize a place! Why, its Canberra. Capital of Australia. And my car thermometer is telling me its hovering around 40C outside. I’ve always been interested in visiting Canberra because I’ve always really liked Washington, DC and Canberra seems to have been modeled on Washington. Not knowing the place at all, I just cruised down towards the parliament building to see it in person. I noted a big exit ramp for the parliament building and immediately thought to myself, I better not go up there or I will get in trouble with security. Needing lunch, I found my way back to a big park next to a big river for a bit of a picnic. While having my lunch I had a quick squiz through my Lonely Planet guide to see what there was to do here. Lo’ and Behold, there were lots of free things you could do including visiting Parliament and lots of museums — just like Washington DC.

I immediately went to check out the Parliament because it does seem to dominate so much of the news in Australia. I was able to park my car for free under the building, catch and elevator up to the main floor, and pretty much tour the building on my own. I did tag along on a free tour as well, but I found the free access to be quite boggling. We had to go through airport-type security and they did dust me for an explosives check, but after that I was free to roam. Mind you, there isn’t too much going on there at the moment with everyone away on summer vacation, but still… I was able to walk into the house of representatives room and the senate to take pictures.

Parliament Building in Canberra
Parliament Building in Canberra

One of the interesting things about the place, which is quite modern and only just opened in 1988, is the thought that went into the design. It was felt that the building should never be placed on a hill because it would symbolize that the government was above the people when it reality it should be the people above the government. So the building is actually underground partially and to this day visitors are encouraged to ride an elevator to the top of it and walk around on the lawn that covers its roof and flows down a hill to its side. It used to be that anyone walking through Canberra could just walk over the building, but that had to be changed to now require all interested parties to go through security first.

Old Parliament Building as seen from new Parliament Building.
Old Parliament Building as seen from New Parliament Building.

The is a lot more I would love to see in Canberra, but my time is running short and I must be moving on towards Perth. In the evening I headed up into the hills for cooler temperatures and camping in a big local national park. At the moment they have total fire bans in place due to the very dry hot weather, so dinner is consisting of cold meat sandwiches, crackers, tuna and/or sardines, and fruit and nuts. Not real exciting.

Australia, New South Wales

The Smokey Blues

Blue Mountains National Park
Blue Mountains National Park

Made a beeline for the famous Blue Mountains National Park just west of Sydney. After a cruisey drive down from Myrall lakes and into metropolitan Sydney, I encountered my first toll roads in Australia. Oddly enough they didn’t have cash lanes, so I opted to set my GPS to avoid them. Sydney is a great city, but like most – better seen without a car or gear in the back to worry about. I headed up into the mountains to see what I’ve often head people talk about and what I regularly see out of my plane window when flying to Perth from Sydney.

Blue Mountains National Park
Blue Mountains National Park

There had been fired in the area and there was still a bit of lingering smoke, but the Blue Mountains lived up to their reputation. There are a number of lookout points you can drive to at the top, but there are also a variety of trails that drop down to different levels of the cliffs, passing by rivers and waterfalls along the way. I took one trail recommended to me by the park staff that dropped you half way down the side of the cliff and along a ridge past waterfalls and amazing overlooks until you get to a very steep staircase up the other side. The National Pass trail it was called. A really amazing hike!

Blue Mountains National Park
Blue Mountains National Park
Blue Mountains National Park
Blue Mountains National Park
Blue Mountains National Park
Blue Mountains National Park

Afterwards I headed back down the other side of the mountains to find a campsite that was also recommended to me by the Blue Mountains staff. They gave me a map and showed me the best scenic route, so I logged a few of the towns into my GPS to route me and give me an ETA. Seeing as it was only about an hour and 15 minutes, and the temperature back down in the valley was hovering around 100F (again), I decided to goof off a bit in the first historic town I came to – even grabbing dinner from a local cafe. When I hopped back into my car to drive what was supposed to be the last 15 minutes I ended up in a suburban neighborhood with NO national parks or campsites in sight! Major GPS failure. Or maybe the map was wrong. I haven’t determined which yet, but I was finally able to punch in some GPS coordinated from a book I have on campsites for a campsite that appearing to be roughly in the same location as what was recommended to me. Only problem was that it was a good hour of driving down the road and the sun was setting fast.

Blue Mountains National Park
Blue Mountains National Park

It was a beautiful drive and the kangaroos were starting to come out (major road hazard), but after an hour of driving I came across one of the places the park staff had recommended – just as the sun was setting. It was down a long switchback road a few kms off the main road I came in on at a caving park. I arrived at the bottom to find no one around except one camper. Good enough for me, I pitched my tent and headed to bed soon afterwards.

blue-mountains8

What an amazing little find this turned out to be. As the light was getting low I saw my first mainland wombat scurry across the field next to me. There was lots of activity overnight with all kinds of big strange sounds (the hopping kangaroos being the easiest to figure out). Nothing to worry about in Australia as the mammals are rarely a problem for humans here. The stars were also amazing to see with no fly on my tent. In the morning I heard my first lyrebird. The first time I head about lyrebirds I though I was hearing an April Fools joke, but they really exist and can mimic any sound they hear. This one kept imitating the sound of a machine gun, so perhaps it had been hanging out at a local military training ground. I checked with the ranger in the morning and he confirmed that is what it was! It happens to be on the logo/badges of the New South Wales National Park Service.

Abercrombie Caves Kangaroos
Abercrombie Caves Kangaroos
Australia, New South Wales

Foolproof Speedtraps

Interestingly, there were a numerous sections of highways in New South Wales where average speeds were calculated by cameras. Sounds like the foolproof system for catching speeders. They have video cameras mounted over the highway lanes that read you licenses plates. They note when you’ve passed through and calculate the time it takes you to get through the next series of video cameras 10kms (or so) down the road. If it finds you speeding they just mail you your speeding ticket. Unlike point based speed traps, you can’t slow down too fool the radars because your speed is calculated by the average you travelled over the 10kms. Very smart and effective, I think.

Australia, New South Wales

Assateague Island with Dingoes instead of Wild Horses

Now that I’ve passed the eastern-most point in Australia (Byron Bay), every day’s drive will get me somewhat closer to Perth. I knew I had a long tedious drive to do today, so I kicked off by riding my bike down to the beach for a swim with the local surfers. It was very nice and I could have stayed there much longer that I did. Instead I shot off to the local town for breakfast (something I was originally planning to do in Byron Bay) and then hit the tedious turnpike.

Actually, it was a turnpike (toll road) and wasn’t as bad as I was expecting. It was quite busy, but limited to 2 lanes (1 in either direction) for most of it with passing lanes opening up from time to time. It reminded me somewhat of the old coast road up from Bunbury to Perth before they opened up the freeway. There was a fair bit of construction underway because they are trying to expend the entire stretch to 4 lanes. Some sections were done and seemed very light on traffic with 4 lanes.

Myall Lakes
Myall Lakes

I finally arrived at my destination after catching another small ferry and found a campsite at Myrall Lakes just over some sand dunes from a gorgeous eternally-long looking beach. I pitched my tent and went for a swim – just to bookend my day with two beautiful swims. The beach somehow reminded me to Assateague Island, but with possible dingoes instead of wild horses. Found some mysterious paw prints in the sand the following morning.

Dingo Tracks
Dingo Tracks
Australia, New South Wales, Queensland

Byron Breathalyzation

Feeling all revved up by my Lamington National Park stay, I hopped in my car and pursued what was supposed to be a two hour drive down to Byron Bay for a night there. Byron Bay is a funky little alternative town everyone raves about, but when I finally got there I could only find an eternally long traffic jam to get in, no accommodation available at any campsites for miles around, and a cop waiting to breathalyze me on the way back out. Not such a good experience. I did manage to find a caravan park several towns down the cost which was wildly expensive, but only at the last minute.

Natural Bridge at Springbrook National Park
Natural Bridge at Springbrook National Park

Earlier in the day, on the way to Byron Bay, I did enjoy driving through some very spectacular mountain passes and a visit to a national park with a waterfall flowing over and under a natural bridge.

Australia, Queensland

The benefits of hairy legs

Lamington National Park
Lamington National Park

After consulting with various friends about where to go next over the weekend, I set off around mid-day armed with my remaining highly recommended itinerary. First stop was a national park on the southern border of Queensland up in the mountains name Lamington National Park.

Lamington National Park
Lamington National Park

I managed to end up with a nice little spot for my tent even though it was meant for campervans. Up in the mountains it was actually pretty cold overnight, but I had plenty of warm clothes to rug up in. There were quite a few hiking trails along rainforest ridges and down into valleys past beautiful waterfalls. I only had time to do an elevated tree-top walk the day I arrived, and a 12km forest/waterfall loop the morning before I left. A very nice hike that descended into a river valley and crisscrossed past various waterfalls.

Lamington National Park
Lamington National Park
Lamington National Park
Lamington National Park
Lamington National Park
Lamington National Park
Lamington National Park
Lamington National Park

Saw quite a bit of interesting wildlife, but I did ‘t care much for the perpetual onset of leeches at the riverbanks. They look like little black inchworms and they move very quickly up your legs looking for a spot to dig into. Fortunately, the hair on my legs would tickle when the attempted to climb me, so I was able to quickly find each one and flick it off before it bit me.

Lamington National Park
Lamington National Park
Australia, Queensland

Weekend in Brisbane

Had a great time catching up with friends in Brisbane. Some I knew were there and others I didn’t. I also enjoyed a bit of hiking in a local national park, exploring bits of the town, visiting museums, and snooping around various trendy neighborhoods. We did most of our transportation in and around town via speedy river ferries, which was pretty cool The thing to do in Queensland cities, it seems, is to open a public free pool in the busiest tourist part of town. Arlie Beach, Cairns, and Brisbane all had them.

Decided to scrub down my car after 10,000 kilometers of caked-on dirt. It wasn’t easy finding a place where you could do it yourself, but I finally found one. Once I got there I naturally needed a bit of time to get all the mud off. By the time I was finished, a long line of people waiting in line behind me were beginning to give me disgruntled looks.

Australia, Queensland

Boston meets San Francisco

One my 1 month anniversary of beginning my road trip from Adelaide, I was scheduled to drop in on some expat Perth friends who have moved to Brisbane in the past few years and spend the weekend catching up with them and seeing the city for the first time.

One the way down I dropped by a few beach spots including Bridie Island, where I had my first nice swim in real surf without any crocs or jellyfish to worry about.

The drive into Brisbane was quite amazing due to the labyrinth of roads and multitude of endless roller-coaster hills. There is no way I would have been able to figure out my way around if it wasn’t for my GPS! Brisbane roads seemed to be a combination of San Francisco and Boston rolled into one. Even my friends there seemed to get a bit confused from time to time when trying to find their way around.

Australia, Queensland

Crikey!

Had one last night to camp before arriving in Brisbane to visit some friends and see the city. The area I camped in was quite beautiful, but the campground was another state forest full of bogans. After pitching my tent in what appeared to be a deserted campground, I ventured off to explore some of the sites in the area including The Glasshouse Mountains and The Australia Zoo.

The Glasshouse Mountains were really quite interesting since they was actually volcano plugs that were once below the surface of the earth but not sticking up as mountains due to the erosion of everything around them. There were a series of them in a line that James Cook spotted and named as he explored the area.

The Australian Zoo was the base for Steve “Crikey” Irwin before he died and is still run by his surviving family. Not being a huge fan, I was a bit put off at what appeared to be too much emphasis on the family members as celebrities and not enough on wildlife. I was especially put off by the $60 price tag (!) to visit the place for the day. I spoke with several friends since I decided to skip it and they all said it was quite good. For $60 I would have felt obligated to spend an entire day there – and that would have made it difficult to get into Brisbane during peak rush hour at the end of the day.

While I was out, the campsite quickly filled up with loud boisterous bogans smoking dope and drinking too much beer in the evening. Some of them were actually making an attempt to be quiet and friendly (perhaps to head off any complaints), but the combination of very hot weather, very high humidity, and very stagnant air made it very difficult to sleep that night. Campfires made it especially bad because every time there was a slight breeze it ended up blowing smoke in my tent and choking me out.

Australia, Queensland

Cannondale, meet Conondale; Conondale, meet Cannondale.

At last, a national park with actual mountain bike trails! They’re shared with horse trails and maintenance 4wd tracks, but at least they have SOMETHING here! So yes, I took my Cannondale mountain bike out for a spin in Conondale National Park this morning while it was still a bit cool. Only problem was that there were only two flavors of trails: straight up (Nanga Challenge style) or back and forth meandering through river beds – which seemed to get progressively deeper. I did a bit of both but didn’t last too long in the heatwave. At least I found a nice spot for a swim along the way.

Conondale National Park Mountain Biking