A nationwide strike is in effect all day today. This has forced all shops to close and most traffic to quietly disappear. People are still walking the streets, possibly with nowhere to go, and there were some marches with people chanting earlier this morning. I also heard a low flying police/military helicopter buzz overhead around lunchtime. I was advised by my hotel not to leave the immediate neighborhood, so I’ve snuck out for a lunch nearby but will likely remain indoors for the rest of the day. The strike appears to be about an upcoming election in June that certain people don’t think should go ahead.
So far I’ve been eating all local food, which has been very nice and similar to Indian or Sri Lankan. There are a few other local delicacies on the menu, like momas, which look like little dumplings, that I hope to try soon. The Nepalese people have been very friendly with little hustling – other than a few odd drug dealers and mysterious dance club herders in the streets targeting what few tourists they can find this time of year.
Fortunately, I was able to work out a plan for my visit here with my hotel. Instead of throwing all my eggs in the Everest Base Camp hike basket everyone has been prodding me to do (which would have taken all my Nepalese time, lots of money, and been extra cold and snowy to do this time of year, climbing to 5000+ meters), I’ve opted for a bit more variety.
I’ve decided to head to Chitwan National Park with another personal driver and another safari (both in 4wd and on an elephant’s back). Afterwards my driver will take me to the scenic city of Pokhara, by a big lake and surrounded by huge mountains. While in Pokhara I will do a nearby 5 day trek along some of the nicest sections of the famous Annapurna Circuit, which normally takes an entire month to complete in its entirety. Trekking in Nepal consists of hiking from teahouse to teahouse for meals and comfortable accommodation, so minimal gear should need to be carried. I will have a personal guide for the trek, but no sherpa will probably be needed. Afterwards I will remain in Pokhara for several more days, hopefully getting some mountain biking in, before flying back to Kathmandu for a few days before flying out to Korea.
By the evening, the strike appeared to have ended and the shops began to open again. It is quite an amazing little neighborhood here in Thamel. All of the streets are like little alleyways lined on either side with countless shops selling crafts, counterfeit outdoor gear, maps and books, and food. The lane-ways are decorated above with strings of little flags that crisscross back and forth. There are absolutely no franchise stores anywhere sans an oddly placed Baskin Robbins stand and countless fake The North Face stores.
For dinner I had the pleasure of eating at a little restaurant across the lane-way that appeared to be run by a few Japanese guys who were training up some local Nepalese. The place was packed and I was forced to eat at a breakfast bar in their kitchen. It was very interesting to watch them cook my meal in front of me and see all the frantic stress they were going through trying to keep up with everyone else’s order. Lots of fried garlic smoke to choke on, but lots of fun.
