Like most Hawaiian Islands, the Big Island has a very wet windward coast on the east and a very dry leeward coast in the west. The rain forests on the windward coasts are usually really fascinating and full of hippies (or “ferals”, as they are known in Australia), but the constant rain and dampness can eventually start to wear you down. The dry, leeward coasts offer much warmer and sunnier weather with much calmer surf. Of course, the heat in these places can start to wear you down just as quickly.
It seems most visitors to places like the Hawaiian and Fiji Islands are primarily interested in hanging out on a beach somewhere, so these dry coasts are what seem to attract most of the tourists and tourist resorts. I can’t say I’m much for hanging out on beaches personally, but it’s nice to do a bit of everything while you’re traveling. And besides, there are some places in these areas that are good for snorkeling, and that is something I do like to do.
So there amongst the $500-a-night resorts, including a multi-million dollar Hilton (dubbed “Disneyland” by the locals), I checked into my $20-a-night cabin with ocean views overlooking Hapuna Beach State Park. Okay, it was pretty basic, and it looked like it hadn’t really had any maintenance since it was built in the 1970’s — but it did the trick and was a short walk from a fabulous beach. After being visited by a few spiders, geckos, mosquitoes, ant colonies and mice in my cabin, I just decided to pitch my freestanding tent on the floor so I could sleep in peace. I’ve been used to such night time visitors since I first arrived in Fiji.
Hapuna Beach State Park was a good base to use for swimming and some decent snorkeling along some reefs near the southern end of the cove. But the really nice snorkeling was a few clicks down the road behind a wealthy neighborhood called Puako. I knew I found a great spot when I spotted an expensive snorkeling tour operator anchored just offshore and other divers climbing out of the surf. Sure enough, it was one of the best snorkeling spots I’ve ever found, with loads of colorful tropical fish swimming into and out of deep canyons a few hundred feet off shore. The divers told me they liked it for the big underwater lava tube they could explore.
While I stayed at Hapuna Beach State Park, I also did the obligatory visit to the Hilton Waikoloa Village (aka Disneyland) — just to see how the other half lives. The answer? They live just like they do at home, with giant shopping malls right there on the beach with them. It reminded me more of King of Prussia Mall than anything else. And to think that King of Prussia is what I try to take vacations from…
