New Zealand, North Island

From one America’s Cup ghost town to the next…

Greetings from Auckland, New Zealand. Another former home of the America’s Cup (after Fremantle). I was here once in 1987 and I can see how they’ve sunk millions of dollars into their harbor in hopes that they would be a long time America’s Cup host. Unfortunately, they just lost it to the Swiss (?) last year. Actually, they lost it to a New Zealander who was hired by the Swiss — which was obviously a bit controversial around these parts. But then again, the America’s Cup has become all about money, anyway.

I seem to have picked a great time to visit this place. The weather doesn’t seem too harsh, but the summer tourists haven’t shown up yet. The benefit is that all the car rental companies and accommodation providers are desperate for business and have slashed their prices (up to 2/3’s in some cases).

My Lonely Planet guide advises not even thinking about visiting Auckland without reservations at one of the hostels. Me, being the organized traveler that I am, decided to rock up and take my chances (just like in 1987, I might add — except back then I only had 10 cents in my pocket. Literally! That’s another story). I called one of the YHA’s from the airport, and they were happy to not only take me in, but give me my own room. And they only charged me as though I was sharing it with someone because business was so slow. They told me I would be better off because it was unlikely anyone else would show up, anyway. Peak tourist season in New Zealand is between November and May (?).

Auckland’s main drag seems a tad grittier than Perth’s, but it has a nice, big city feel to it. They have a space needle type thing they claim is the tallest building in the southern hemisphere. I was given the opportunity to bungee jump off it and declined — but I did see two others jump (including an old guy). They dangle them in front of the observation deck before dropping them to the bottom.

The main strip in Auckland is loaded with Japanese, Korean, and Chinese restaurants. I went for a fabulous Korean pork barbeque tonight. Daniel can attest to Korean barbeques living near Koreatown, Los Angeles. For lunch I had a nice South Pacific seafood chowder down by the wharf. Mmmmm… Tomorrow it’s back to sardines and instant noodles, I suppose.

There are also lots of Yanks about. Something I’m not used to. Must have something to do with those Lord of the Rings movies…

I’ve organized a car rental for the next few weeks. Prices vary quite widely, but they’re all pretty cheap right now. The key was finding one that would help me get to the South Island easily (where the REALLY spectacular stuff is). I finally found one that has a dropoff/pickup at the ferry terminals on both islands so I don’t have to pay the hundreds of dollars I would have had to pay with the cheaper car rental companies to get the car back and forth. It’s a 3+ hour ferry ride.

I will start heading south tomorrow (since I only went north in 1987). I figure about a week on the North Island and about 12 days on the South Island.

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